Jump to content
SAU Community

Flashing Airbag light

skyline33

By skyline33,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

skyline33 Grand Master

skyline33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I did a search and found this but i'm not sure which is the driver door switch:

THIS IS HOW TO RESET THE AIRBAG COMPUTER

First you have to put the system into the diagnostic mode. Here's how to do this:

From User Mode To Diagnosis Mode:

Diagnosis Mode activates only when a malfunction is detected, by pressing the driver's door switch at least 5 times within 7 seconds after turning the ignition "ON". SRS will not enter Diagnosis Mode if no malfunction is detected.

From Diagnosis Mode to User Mode:

After a malfunction is repaired, switch the ignition "OFF" for at least 1 second , then back "ON". Diagnosis Mode returns to User Mode. If switching Diagnosis Mode to User Mode is required while malfunction is being detected, switch the ignition "OFF", then back "ON" and press the driver's door switch at least 5 times within 7 seconds.

After a malfunction is repaired, return to User Mode from Diagnosis Mode by switching the ignition "OFF" for at least 1 second, then back "ON". At that time, the problem code is cleared

AeroGrace Rising Star

AeroGrace

Posted
Posted

that happened to me once when I had the boost gauge put in airbag light went flashing whenever ignition was turned on, it happens when the car senses a voltage leak or something or other...but they finally cleared it all up and I believe it was with the instructions you got(they told me they got it from the internet too)

anyway, i believe the switch is the little black rubber button thingy on the drivers side door near where the sticker for the tyre specs should be, i saw him pressing it a number of times along with some other stuff he did.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Oh dear. The panel beating needs to be done before the filler work. Do you have a photo of the dent before you started? Hard enough to not flex and only hit the high spots?  What do you mean it was just temporary? 
    • Manur33
      Vag Coil Diy loom wire guage selection

      By Manur33 · Posted

      Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • Manur33
      Vag Coil Diy loom wire guage selection

      By Manur33 · Posted

      These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • nouveau_poor
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By nouveau_poor · Posted

      I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
×
×
  • Create New...