Boost Dilemma.. Controllers Won't Work

[GTAAAH]

I recently had to take the boost controller of my old car and replacing said controller with a piece of rubber hosing. Now i'm trying to reinstall the controller and im having problems. The boost is far toooo high, even with the screw all the way out (it's one of those $22 ones from ceffies thread) im using an after market boost controller and if i kept accelerating it looks like it'd head past 1.5 bar (normally it sits at 1 bar). I thought the controller was stuffed so i went and bought a new autotechnica one from autobarn and after installing it have found the same problem. Even on 1 click (lowest setting) it boosts really high and same story when it's set to off. Now i reinstalled the hose (got rid of old hose that had controller T-Pieced) and it's back to normal again (boosting to around 5-7 PSI for some reason)

Any help would be cool it's confusing me

Mods are:

R34 turbo

3" turbo back split dump

Pod

remap Dr drift styles

thats about it

[Basti]

my random noob guess would be a leak in one of your hoses after you tookout the controller the first time. now its back to normal coz its a new hose. some1 correct me if im wrong

[MANWHORE]

My money is on a guess that you've plumbed it up incorrectly. Did you tap it into a pressure source? i.e. the nipple on the intercooler piping? or did you tap it onto the piping before the turbo?

If both bc's didn't work, it means it was plumbed wrongly.

[GTAAAH]

Nah, i've tried a new piece of hose just in case the old one had a split (it's only about 20 cm long) The plumbing is the same as it was before, one nipple off the actuator source and the other from a pipe that leads from the turbo out, just b4 the intercooler. Confusing

[GTAAAH]

http://img247.imageshack.us/my.php?image=m...controllqy8.jpg

There, i drew my set up

Edited April 5, 2007 by r32 gts-turbo

[bubba]

I think it needs to be inline with the actuator/pressure source.. i.e. remove the T piece, connect the inlet side to the cooler piping and the outlet side to the wastegate actuator. That is how my ball valve boost controller was plumbed up. When I installed the ebc it was the same except I had to run an extra cabling from the control unit to the solenoid and pickup a pressure source for the readout from near the fuel pressure reg.

[GTAAAH]

Yeh, the ball valve type (which i used to have) doesn't need a T piece, it is the T piece. This controller uses the t piece so that you can run the controller into the cabin and adjust it from inside (has a looong hose) thanks anyways, anyone else?

[bubba]

I seriously doubt that the "outlet" port as you labelled it should be left open. If anything, the outlet should go to the actuator and put the T piece on the "inlet" side so that you can "bleed" off more air via a valve in-cabin.

[GTAAAH]

Yeh, the instructions that come with it say something along the lines of "pute hose on and run to place where air can dissipate" Wouldnt the outlet port be the same port that the ball and spring ball controllers have, as in the port on top that opens to relieve the pressure? I read the instructions a few times, damn confusing.

[bubba]

Mine had no extra hole, never had any problems with it.

It's just that looking at the way you've hooked it up, it looks to me like there is a major vacuum leak and the actuator isn't being told to open (because it's not getting any pressure due to the leak). This would result in uncontrolled boost (which you are getting) and possibly blowing your engine up!

[mad082]

the hole they are talking about is a tiny hole from where it bleeds the air off. outlet valve should be going to the actuator.

[mad082]

the $22 controller should be setup like this

[Gazee]

the $22 controller should be setup like this

[GTAAAH]

Thats how the old one was set up (2 posts above) and setting it up like that again it was boosting to infinity, so i assumed something in it was shot and thats why we grabbed one of these

http://www.littlereds.co.nz/cart.php?p=details&pid=26 (from autobarn)

The T piece only works 1 way, so im assuming theres a gate in the T piece that routes air to the controller, or something i don't know, but it's definitely installed as the instructions said (T piece bleeds boost to the controller which is in cabin and the outlet is for excess gasses) .. You guys are saying the T piece is superfluous and it should look like:

and not like

http://img247.imageshack.us/my.php?image=m...controllqy8.jpg

correct?

Edited April 5, 2007 by r32 gts-turbo

[bubba]

Yes. But if it came with a T-piece and a knob to go in the cabin, that should probably be plumbed into the "inlet" line.

Is there a means of adjustment on the boost controller itself?

Edit: cooler pipe > T piece > boost controller > wastegate actuator

Edited April 5, 2007 by bubba

[mad082]

yeah. give it a try like that.

[mad082]

never had any troubles with my $22 controller. had troubles with my $250 turbosmart dual stage though. it would bleed off from 14psi to about 11psi. the $22 one would go from 14psi to about 13psi.

[bubba]

never had any troubles with my $22 controller. had troubles with my $250 turbosmart dual stage though. it would bleed off from 14psi to about 11psi. the $22 one would go from 14psi to about 13psi.

I never had problems with my $22 controller, didn't have that extra hole either that has been debated for millenia.

[mad082]

didn't have that extra hole either that has been debated for millenia

one of the other problems i had with my turbosmart one was that that hole would get blocked and trap the air in between it and the wastegate so when i grabbed the next gear and floored it the wastegate was still open so at 4000rpm i would be starting to get into positive boost and get to about 7psi by about 6000rpm

[Thunderbolt]

It appears like you hooked it up right. The best process to work out the problems is to isolate where the problem is. You can do this by using a straight connector instead of the t-piece to see if there is a problem with the hose. If you are getting normal boost then you can safely say that it is not the hose causing the problem. Once this is done then run a little pipe off the bottom of the t-piece and block it off. This will tell you whether the t-piece could be the problem. You get where I am coming from anyway.....