Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys

I recently installed a HKS mushroom filter on my S1 R33 (Auto) and noticed that the idle is running rough. Sounds almost like its missing a bit and revs at idle range from 400-900. The power on low end (10-40km) is really shite as well, feels really laggy. This is the only mod i've done to the car, everything else is bone stock.

The air filter was put on after a mate tried to get more sound out of the stock BOV. I.e. Plugged the plumb back hose and vented the BOV to atmosphere. We found that the car ran rough as guts, hunting at idle and stalling, but sounded great hahaha, so we put the BOV back to stock plumb back and just bolted on a mushroom filter. Later did some research and heard that stock BOV is always open just a little and idle was hunting due to lack of back pressure. Is this true?

My assumption is that the problem will be fixed after installing an after market BOV which stays closed when not venting. Will this fix the problem? Also I haven't reset the ECU after changing to mushroom filter, maybe give that a go????

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163542-rough-idle-after-pod-install/
Share on other sites

How do you clean your afm?? Carby cleaner yeah but like do i open it up and spray in there? I would have thought this problem had more to do with air pressure?? Wouldn't know SFA though so any suggestions are welcome. Thanks for the replys so far guys

an aftermarket bov won't allow you to have it atmospheric because vacuum will still be strong enough to open it under normal driving conditions unless you tighten the bov more but then there is no point having a bov if it's too tight to properly vent pressure and cause flutter.

when your car is using an AFM its best to keep the bov plumbed back to the intake even if it's aftermarket because you're letting air that the AFM has sensed and added fuel for out of the system causing richness.

to put it simply every time you hear the bov vent you would be wasting fuel and your car would not run well.

Air Flow Meter!!! NOT Air Pressure Gauge..........

Who said Air Pressure Guage?? Can't find it anywhere on the page....

So Dobz..Are you saying that i can't have an atmospheric BOV??? How do other skyline owners do it? Plus i thought you have to have some sort of AFM all the time??? Confused.....

you can have an atmo BOV , you just need a good one which has a good spring and vents well . yes a lot of people have idle troubles because of them if not setup properly . try adjusting the bov , and watch your idle change . a cheap bov will cause numerous amounts of trouble because they arent made well - hopefully you have a decent one , for your own benifit.

here are some things to do :

ACC Valve : search ! . you will find a very well written DIY to clean everything out . your idle will run much better . you need carby cleaner for this - its a must !

AFM: clean it with carby cleaner aswell , spray it in the direction of the arrow on the AFM. there could be some debree attatched to it .

both of these will definitly help your idle if not fix it . remember to search before you post.

its most probably due to the bov not being plumbed back as the ecu is expecting that extra air being recirculated, i did the same of my gtst and it ran like crap plumbed it back and it was all good and because i had a pod put on you could still hear the bov pretty loud if thats what ur after. However i seen ppl not run plumb back systems and they ran fine, you can get a extra module to control ur idle etc, ive also seen ppl run two bovs, the original plumbed back and another one to the atmosphere which works too i guess.

The BOV is still plumbed back, changed that back to stock before adding the pod. I noticed last night that it behaves much better at night when the air is cooler than in the day, might sound stupid but it seemed heaps quicker than when stock. It's just in the day time that its really laggy from 0-40km/h.

Maybe the super special microchip in the pod is dirty. Try cleaning it and it will not only run better but give you 20 or 30more rwkw's . :laughing-smiley-014:

but in all seriousnes just try disconnecting the air flow meter and putting it back in again, also reset the ecu before starting car again. I ave had identical problem twice after mucking around with the pod filter and thats what fixed it for me..

good luck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...