Jump to content
SAU Community

Is R33 Catback Exhaust And R34 Same?

gtt

By gtt,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

gtt Apprentice

gtt

Posted
Posted

I got defected last night at RBT, the cops are bad, mad, craszy..... I did nothing wrong, they pull me over for a test, I was fine and then they say my exhaust is too low. I been pull over at 9.30pm, and on the defect paper he put down 8.15pm. give me 24 hour to dirve, I said to him, I need just one working day to fix the problem, may I get a bit extention time, His said to me if i keep asking he will call tow truck to tow my car away!

i'm driving a r34 gtt in adelaide, which is not may parts aroud. just wonder is the r33 catback exhaust and and r34 the same or can fit? and my stock tyre is 225/45/17, now i'm using 235/40/17 is that ok at regency? also the rear left shocker is not good, is that ok at inspection? or else change the pod fillter I'm all stock.

thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163635-is-r33-catback-exhaust-and-r34-same/
Share on other sites
Nightcrawler Grand Master

Nightcrawler

Posted
Posted

I think you could make an R33 exhaust fit - it will certainly bolt-on to the turbo/dump pipe, but the mounts might be slightly different. I would give it a try if I was you.

tyres are fine.

shocker they may or ma not check.

pod filter is fine as long as it is fixed and doesn't wobble around all over the place.

gtt Apprentice

gtt

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks mate, that would be great help. PM send.

Another question, you know the r34 xenon head light. I put it back to hid 8000k. what should i do about it? Should I remove it and put the H1 on it or i should put a 4300k xenon builb?

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Shoot to down to exhaust technology, they should be able to help you get through defect with your current exhaust.

Did they measure the height of the exhaust? 100mm clearance is what's required.

Where abouts was the defect station?

gtt Apprentice

gtt

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Shoot to down to exhaust technology, they should be able to help you get through defect with your current exhaust.

Did they measure the height of the exhaust? 100mm clearance is what's required.

Where abouts was the defect station?

No they didn't measure, the defect me at RBT! on port road just pass killkenny rd towards city on saturday nigtht last week. they just say it is too low. I measure myself at home, lowest point about 9.5cm. I can make my car up a bit easy.

thanks for your help, I will go to exhaust technology, where about's they are? Is it in city on gouger st? if I don't pass the first inspection do they take your old parts away?

gtt Apprentice

gtt

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks mate

I just called regency. they said coil-overs are ok, must be on the right hight and no leaks. exhaust 90 db. after market bov can't pass, even you pump back. anybody tell me why the HID head light is stardand in Japan, here complance remove it, and put H1 on it. so if I use a 4300k hid builb, can pass the inspection or not.

gtt Apprentice

gtt

Posted
  • Author
Posted
regency will pass u with coil-overs? is this true? :O

True, very true. I rang up the regency, they put me through to the inspector , his said he can not pass after market BOV, even you pump back. but he will pass coil- over if it is on the legal hight in good codition.

rad100 Grand Master

rad100

Posted
Posted

sorry to hear mate! i have to say this but cops need lifes and defects r crap!!! how can the sound of and exhaust be a danger? man seriously they should look for things that could actually harm and be dangerous!!! i know this has been said loads of times but its crap hahaha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
×
×
  • Create New...