Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I did the whole set up step of the knocking levels, was getting about 80 at 1,600rpm & 92-100 at 3,500rpm (in set up screen - not monitor)

so then I put it in monitor mode and it says around 4 while idling but then drops to 0 whenever the throttle is open..

I set it up once the car was warm & took it for a drive once the car was also warm & that's the reading I got..

(I've got an R34 with 35,000kms on the clock)

Ideas as to why it drops to 0?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163747-safc-2-knock-level/
Share on other sites

i just bought an safc2 myself (havent installed it yet)

but as i understand it - you are meant to subtract the "stock" knock figures from the "tune" knock figures... no?

since it's a microphone you'd get knock anyway - but since the "stock" knock figures are normal, you would ultimately make that zero?

what the ?

the knock display on the powerfc is bar chart and digital counter output which goes up as the knock is larger

ie: knock 0 means no knocking. knock 40 is mild, knock 60 is warning, knock 100 is bad etc etc..

normal driving should be 0 or very very low

what the ?

the knock display on the powerfc is bar chart and digital counter output which goes up as the knock is larger

ie: knock 0 means no knocking. knock 40 is mild, knock 60 is warning, knock 100 is bad etc etc..

normal driving should be 0 or very very low

yes, but who sets normal driving = 0 knock? certainly each car has a different "normal"

Ugh, I tried resetting the knock sensor information and I'm still getting the same problem! :(

In the setup screen it's on about 63ish at 1,400rpm and 80-90ish at 3,400rpm yet when I take it to the monitor mode I still get 2,3,4 displaying in neutral with the throttle closed but as soon as I put my foot down a little it just jumps to 0..

I'm doing all this while the car is completely warmed up - oil temp wise.

this is normal.. it has to do with how the SAFC interpolates knock values.. you will often find that after a long driving session (where your knock might have been say 10-15, you will come to rest in neutral and the knock will jump up 8-10 while idling. dont worry about it.

but I'm not getting any knock reading while driving..that's my problem..?

I did a bit more of an investigation:

0 Knock readout in Drive at all times

1-4 when in Park or Neutral

WTF?!

Edited by so_tred

bump, I really want to figure this out..

The 34 has 2 knock sensors coming in/going out of the ECU, could it be that the other knock sensor might somehow respond differently? I really don't want to go pulling things apart again though unless its for sure that's what it is.

I just found this on another message board:

"I was wondering what other peoples knock readings were. WHile at idle, my knock reading goes anywhere from 2 to 16. When I give any throttle at all, the knock reading goes to 0 and stays there."

Reply: "I think at idle your picking up valvetrain noise and other noises.. Low idle you can hear rattles and other noises that you normally wouldn't associate with engine knock.

Even at low RPM its possible to pick up noise.. The truth is that knock sensitivity needs to be fairly numb at low RPM especially at idle, and progressively more sensitive at mid-upper RPM's where you'd typically produce the peaks of boost and up from there.."

Sound about right?

But why does everyone elses here not behave like mine & this guys..

Edited by so_tred

i have no idea how the safc figures out its knocking levels but the powerfc does exhibit any of this behaviour

you dont need to calibrate the pfc knock sensor and it just works out the box.

you get knock display which increases as detonation occurs, via the factory knock sensors

the higher the voltage from the sensor, the higher the value of knock

Michael gets high figures like (80-200) in his RB20 if he floors it onto the freeway. Not too good :(

I leave my car in the sun alot and it's always knocking when I start the car in summer :rofl: Runs like crap in the heat... of course I think my coilpacks might be fried which doesn't help :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...