Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

got a 32

i got a issue where water leaks into my very most right taillight. i been looking and don't quite get how it runs in there?

i know there's a gap between the plastic surround that attaches to the body, but it seems that the water would just run out from there and not into the actual taillight area. i stick a cloth in to drain out the water each day, but there's lots of dirt and stuff getting in that i can't get out, and i worried that if it accumulates too much, the level will rise to the bulb and fry it.

any suggestions or anyone experienced this as well?

cheers,

- dan (coco69)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16389-water-leaking-into-taillights/
Share on other sites

Wow, this is the first Skyline I've heard of with this problem. I've seen countless Commodores and Falcons with it though! Usually it happens for one of 2 reasons. One, because the sealant used around the lens has come apart for whatever reason (age usually). The solution is to take the whole thing apart and re-seal it. Another is if there is a tiny hole in the plastic somewhere, which is what I had in my Commodore. You can fix this with a bit of super glue or Araldite or something.

I'm sure it happens to plenty of Skylines. I've just never actually seen it before*. Last night I saw a brand new BA Falcon with the right tail light 1/4 full of water! Well, it was in Sydney, it was probably at least 2 weeks old and gone through all the rain we had last week :)

* - ok, what's the bet I've jinxed myself now and the first one I'll see will be in my own car?

umm...stop pissing on it :rolleyes:

yeh, i notice so many modern aussuie crap has the one headlight or one tailight or half working (mostly due to water).. Least the japanese are better at it.

I think u can pull the whole assembly out if u detach screws from the boot.. can give that a try... clean it out.. and apply silicon. I know water tends to run down into that area if you open the boot if its wet, down that groove.

  • 2 weeks later...

Same here! R33 and both rear indicators. I had the dealer replace the right rear tail light assembly, just to find when I washed the car the same thing happened again. Bad design in general I feel. When I find the time I think the "pull em out and re-seal them" idea sounds good!

Anybody tried this? Was it a good solution? Difficult?

RJB

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...