Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

swiss automotive in mosman park(ask for francois) specialise in those sort of cars and do heaps of ferraris etc and i think they service that particular car but they are usually 3-4 wks booked out in advance but if you call them and let them know probs squeeze you in.

Seen that car around a fair bit. You do get what you pay for with the TVR's , the engines aren't the best thing about them. A full service history and nothing less is what I'd be asking for.

This one looks better;

http://www.carpoint.com.au/used-car/TVR/CH...es/2238580.aspx

or this one if he wants something with very few kms and performance upgrades;

http://www.carpoint.com.au/used-car/TVR/CH.../csn393250.aspx

TVR's aren't cars you go buying on the 'budget' as they say.

I have my suspicions about that yellow one. New engine and respray 2 years after manufacture says serious crash to me.

He's already looked at the silver one. He hasn't told me what he thinks about it except to ask me to find others for sale. I think maybe he thinks it's overpriced.

The green one does come with full service history and log books. 2 owners. 1st had it as one of a stable of about 8 cars, 2nd owner had every fluid replaced as well as the bushes and even did the timing belt despite only having very few k's on it which is probably a good sign.

Thanks guys.

I have my suspicions about that yellow one. New engine and respray 2 years after manufacture says serious crash to me.

He's already looked at the silver one. He hasn't told me what he thinks about it except to ask me to find others for sale. I think maybe he thinks it's overpriced.

The green one does come with full service history and log books. 2 owners. 1st had it as one of a stable of about 8 cars, 2nd owner had every fluid replaced as well as the bushes and even did the timing belt despite only having very few k's on it which is probably a good sign.

Thanks guys.

Hi Abo Bob,

The silver one is priced right.

I think I remember the yellow one used to be blue (haltech etc), it was for sale at a higher amount ($80k), a year or so ago if it's the same car.Not to mention and it was a 5 litre too from memory. I would be inclined to ping an email asking if the car used to be blue and if it's a factory TVR 5.0.

You need to be very careful when buying a TVR interstate as there are several Monarch ones. No big deal if you are buying from your own state and you live in a state where you don't need to go over the pits for rego every year (like WA). But, if you need to re-register a car from an interstate purchase then it's a probelm. The only cars to look at are the personal import pommy ones. Unfortunately the places the Monarch ones are common are WA and SA, like I said no big deal if you live there but, if you live in NSW or Vic then it may prove a problem?

Arkon,

The TVR's are very fast, at 1000kg, they have space frame chassis and the base model 4.0 cerbera does this to the average pack of super cars. There is a higher power 4.2 and 5.0 version too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...