Jump to content
SAU Community

Stalling Problem Any Input/help Welcome!

RipNGrip

By RipNGrip,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

RipNGrip Collaborator

RipNGrip

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys/girls

I require any input that you guys/girls can offer me.

Vehicle details:

r32 gts4-t

manual

turbosmart boost controller (Boost Tee)

3inch exhaust

FMIC

stock turbo

12 psi

dump pile

2 x BOV - i. after market - ii. stock (Weird previous onwer)

I have recently converted my r32 gts40t from auto to man (this was performed at GT auto garage) with a new exedy clutch and gt-r gearbox and after a good work out..... my baby started heistating 4000 rpm so as i have read on the forums here at the SAU website it could be hair crack in the coilpacks.

SO I gluing them with arodite and performed a compression test and in the process smashed the ignitor loom plugs (where it plugs into the coilpack) so i got a second hand loom from STZ automative.

Got back home put the new loom in and what do u know misfire on idle and load. After as for a mates help (he has a r31 with a rb20det) we swapped the ignitors than tried the loom. Ignitor didn't help. Loom resulted in no misfire at idle so we jumped in and went for a spin..... on load stall. So i thought maybe sparks / coilpacks........... Got new SP coilpacks, NGK iridium spark plugs, regap.

So after inspecting the loom that i got from STZ i found that the guy had given me a rb26 loom. So i returned it. Got a second rb20det loom and changed fuel filter.

Decided to send the car to GT auto garage car didn't mis for them heistated still. I asked for a new walbro pump to be installed, plugs to be regapped, SP coils to be installed.... 50 metres down the road STALL at 40 kms..... steering heavy "battery light comes up" could it be an alternator (&%*$ dying?

Currently heistating over 5000 rpm and stalling randomly and running RIch.

Well any help would be AWESOME

I have tried:

1. New plugs

2. swapped loom, ignitor for another rb20det

3. cleaned and resolder AFM pins

4. New SP coilpacks

5. New fuel filter

6. New fuel pump

7. checked for splits in Intercooler piling

Possbility i have thought of or read from the forum:

1. plastic from the plug has fallen into a cynlinder during compression test

2. alternator is F*&ked - i will find a friend with a multi meter

3. CAS

4. ACC

5. ECU in limp mode

Help........... would be awesome or even ways to test what it could be

I might even just RIPP THE 20 out and put in a 25 or 26 when i can afford it :P

Edited by RipNGrip
RipNGrip Collaborator

RipNGrip

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Update: Haha i will reply to myself! :closedeyes:

AFM soldered and cleaned

cleaned TPS plug

checked for leaks

occasional missing on idle! Revs fairly freely and doesn't stall on release (drops to low revs)

Intermittently stall? (not completely sure - battery light comes on engine sounds like it cuts and battery light goes off) but i charged the battery (battery less than 12 months old) today and tightened some of the connections

fredzz32 Collaborator

fredzz32

Posted
Posted

i'm not too sure if youve done it already? aac valve. my rb20 would stall at every bloody intersection and traffic lights

that i possibly stopped at and towards the end even when i slowed down to minimal revs.

i cleaned mine and it was like a totally new car. also adjusted the idles and its a dream

also when my afm went i couldn't get any power over about 3 grand. every time i took it to mechanics it ran fine.

theyre my experiences with similar problems under any sort of load.

hopefulyy it helps somewhat.

/2on Proficient

/2on

Posted
Posted

Hey mate have u actually tried using a different afm altogether? i have the same problem as you i resoldered my afm and it only temporarily fixed the prob i tried using a diff one and problem solved.

Hope that helps

RipNGrip Collaborator

RipNGrip

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks guys,

I will try and clean the AAC valve today and tomorrow and let u konw how it goes. - i think there is a DIY on this site some where just need the carby cleaner and the gasket seal.

I haven't tried a diff AFM only have one mate who has a skyline! i am a newbie to the booster club! :closedeyes:

Thanks guys

RipNGrip Collaborator

RipNGrip

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

NIZ-26T - i have a K+N pod and it just been cleaned!

Cheers

Just got the carby cleaner and gasket goop so i will see how it goes.

CLEANED and no difference still misses on idle (not like a full miss more like a half miss or a short cut)

Edited by RipNGrip
RipNGrip Collaborator

RipNGrip

Posted
  • Author
Posted

BUMP

Ok update, i have done some more research on this website however i haven't had time to do much more on the car. I regapped down to .8 mm the mechanic just put them in (running boost). Starts start up..... idles fine while still in "choke" i don't know what skylines do but it revs higher and richer.... than gets warm and starts to half miss than full miss......

going to check fuel pressure and check plusitility

going to check air regulator

any thoughts anyone?

RipNGrip Collaborator

RipNGrip

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeh i have two BOV and i have been reading about how it can mes up idle... How do i remove and disable my atmo BOV..... i have two and the atmo sits on the intercooler piling in the corner behind the front left area of my front spoiler..

maybe remove the vaccum piling to it????

RipNGrip Collaborator

RipNGrip

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Update:

I have checked that all 6 injectors are operating. 6 = all good. Cleaned the AAC no miss on idle but it gets worse as it warms up and on any sort of load...........

thinking possible AFM or aftermarket BOV..

How do u remove/disable an aftermarket BOV that is attached to my I/C piling

RipNGrip Collaborator

RipNGrip

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well, i got really drunk on friday so saturday was recovery. Only looked at the car for a bit on sunday. I also downloaded the r32 engine manual (it is quite helpful - answer those a few questions on how to do diagnostics). I got a multimeter and some fuel just so i could have a crack at it for a bit. It seems that the problem gets worse as the car warms up..... it even starts to miss at idle if the car is warm.

So far:

1. placed screw driver on all 6 injectors (click, click, click) come from all of them - so they are pulsing

2. cleaned the AAC valve - it was really really dirty.

3. gapped down to .8mm (iridum plugs - i am having doubts about these plugs too)

4. resoldered the AFM and performed a DIY test which involved 12v battery, fan and multimeter - .5 volts fan didn't make a difference in the voltage so i am wondering if it wasn't powerful enough a fan or my AFM is BONED. I am leaning toward a AFM currently considering it warms up and starts missing on load/on idle. if i unplug the AFM plug the car just runs rich (light black smoke coming out the back) and sorta limps.

possbles:

1. replace afm with a mates

2. clean air regulator

3. BUY more copper plugs with higher heat ranges - grrrrrrrrrr irdiums aren't CHEAP

4. send it back to the mechanic

5. POUR PETROLLLLL on the RB20DET and smoke a cig next to it

6. crank the BOOST and try and destory the car

7. REPLACE WITH RB25 or RB26 after tax time.......... :) dont'[ have that much money for half cut and conversion

RipNGrip Collaborator

RipNGrip

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well..... HOpefull i have found the soultion and i will post it for future misfire/stalling/heistating skyline drivers later...

Ran diag mode.

Code 54 = Auto gearbox d/c > auto to man conversion :( - HD exedy

Code 12 = AFM ......... HOPEFULLY found the source of my problems

p.s addition problem which i think worked towards to stalling was a split intercooler piling!

Anyways trying to find an jap auto wrecker with a AFM and i will confirm diagnosis!

RipNGrip Collaborator

RipNGrip

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Swapped ignitor with working rb20det... no deal! It seems to spit out some small black clumps (feel slightly wet) from the exhaust and begining to think it maybe a head gasket leak which comes to life when the engine warms up! HOwever maybe i should just bring it to a mechanic which specialize in rb20 skylines!

any recommendations guys?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jez NF
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By jez NF · Posted

      Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • wizlb
      Flex Fuel Kit Workshop

      By wizlb · Posted

      Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • Piggaz
      Ogura orc1000f vs Osg tr2cd vs Osg r3c experiences, max torque/max hp?

      By Piggaz · Posted

      I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • uchoa
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...