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so somehow, just seal the top and blow compressed air into it?

shoudl i leave the bleed on the slave open?

yes make a rubber bung or something to seal the top of the master and cut a tiny hole in it and put the air comp gun into it so its sealed and fluid doesnt go flying everywhere. yes leave the bleed open.

dont put much air into it, it only requires enough to force the fluid through the line and get all the air pockets out.

hold the bung on hard to incase it wants to pop off the master :bunny:

good luck

Do not stuff around with 10-15 year old master cylinders and re build kits

You are in Japan

A new master would be less than 8000yen from Nissan new

I bought a new R34 GTT here in Aus for approx $110 AU (approx 9500yen)

k sorry bud i got no suggestions at all then, this is the first jap car i ever had, all previous cars were either old shitfighters or auto's, only real manual i had any dramas with was an SS LX hatchback with a small block chev in it and after stuffing around with clutch blow ups i converted it to a powerglide with a trans-brake so was like a manual anyway.

so the stagea is the first manual car i have had in years.

cheers oxford

A pressure bleed like someone here suggested sounds like a good idea, just thought I'd say that I have seen master cylinders that you have to 'bench bleed'. When they're installed on the booster in the car, the master cylinder is often angled slightly upwards, with the end away from the firewall being higher. This allows an air bubble to become trapped in the master cylinder itself, and what the service manual for my bluebird recommended was to do a 'bench bleed' where you work the master cylinder by hand with it off the car and level on the bench, to get this air bubble out of the end of it. I experienced that problem and a bench bleed got my brakes back; don't know if this applies to clutches but I guess it might.

When I fitted the 26 I bled up the clutch on my own but admittedly it was manual before so fluid was probably trapped. When I did it the first time round when I did the manual conversion I had REAL issues getting fluid to flow through (I'm using an S14 master cylinder) but we had access to compressed air. The workshop I did it at (thanks again guys!!!!!) had a tool that hooked up to one nipple at a time & drew (sucked) the fluid through. Worked a treat & I had the best pedal ever!!!!!

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