Jump to content
SAU Community

B.o.v And Boost Control

stagpower

By stagpower,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

stagpower Community Regular

stagpower

Posted
Posted

hey all,just wondering if it is easy enought to fit b.o.v an boost controller myself or pay 2 get done,,,i know it might sound funny but i hav alwayz had holdens..anything with them i can do,but imports...........any help would be apprciated,thanx

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165215-bov-and-boost-control/
Share on other sites
  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Ska Grand Master

Ska

Posted
Posted

Yeah it is easy enough, undo 2 bolts and the hoses and bolt on the new one.

Word of warning, if you are thinking of putting an atmospheric venting BOV on, you will find that all it will do is make your stag constantly stall.

Ska Grand Master

Ska

Posted
Posted

Well if it just bolts on, and you only have to attach a little tube from the plenum to it, and nothing else, then more than likely it is an atmo venting.

Plumback will have a like little pipe, bout as round as a 50cent piece, where you attach the piping that runs back into the intake

Stinky Rooster Grand Master

Stinky Rooster

Posted
Posted

atmo BOV's usually have a trumpet looking thing on the side to help make the annoying noise (that is actually illegal in WA and the cops really hate them). If you do a search you will find quite a few very learned people on this site that recommend leaving the std one in place unless you are going with a highflow or stupidly big AM turbo, but its up to you.

You are in Gosnells huh? Drop me a PM if you do go ahead because I would love to come and stick my head under your bonnet and watch/help with the proceedings. I share your n00bness to imports, but I was a Ford man myself before the Stagea (ie seeing the light)

stasis Mentor

stasis

Posted
Posted (edited)

it makes the engine fart louder thats all. It doesnt improve the performance at all.

When i first joined the forum the BOV "the fart valve" was on my mod list. And these guys are the ones who talked me out of it. And i needed 2 BOV which will cost me around 800 bucks. so... . Reakky you dont need the BOV you rather spend it on something else like pod filters and the cold air intake box .

If you talk to cruiseliner in regards of the BOV im pretty sure he will spank your ass and say :P :P :D dibt touch the damn thing. Well he made his point out to me. LOLOLO!!! But i saved $$though.

Edited by stasis
stagpower Community Regular

stagpower

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeh if i do do it i will let u know newbie101,i had a pod filter on for about 3months but the car soundin like a kettle when im drivin and only sounding good when i back off just didnt do it for me.so i just put the airbox back on.

stasis Mentor

stasis

Posted
Posted
^^

*waits patiently for cruiseliner to respond*

Oh, thats right......

:D

he won't because he got :P off the forum!

Wat cruiseliner got :P off the forum again? Since when ? And wha did he do this time? No wonder havent seen him for quite sometimes now.

Stinky Rooster Grand Master

Stinky Rooster

Posted
Posted

he made the tragic mistake of actually having an opinion and sharing it when asked to. That, and the fact that some brown nosing mods that have never heard the term "innocent dissolution" before, overreacted.

But, thats just my slightly jaded opinion on it, ask the user with the handle "overpowered" I'm sure he could tell you more, I am pretty sure he still see's cruiseliner from time to time :P

ssshonky Grand Master

ssshonky

Posted
Posted

well there is one question I was going to ask .. that I no longer have to ask :P

I had a plumb back BOV on my pulsar and it was loud as hell .. dont know how they think its supposed to be silent. I was thinking of changing the factory BOV on the Stagea just cause I think they sound kinda nice.. but after reading this I might not. Was just looking for that nice tssshhh noise.

not the sound of my old one that sounded like a pidgeon on a megaphone.. " BEEEEOOOOWWW "

stasis Mentor

stasis

Posted
Posted
well there is one question I was going to ask .. that I no longer have to ask :)

I had a plumb back BOV on my pulsar and it was loud as hell .. dont know how they think its supposed to be silent. I was thinking of changing the factory BOV on the Stagea just cause I think they sound kinda nice.. but after reading this I might not. Was just looking for that nice tssshhh noise.

not the sound of my old one that sounded like a pidgeon on a megaphone.. " BEEEEOOOOWWW "

hahah!! thats funny. Yea i rather hear the noise of the pod intake though the turbos sucking it in.

BTW which thread did cruiseliner got :P while he made his comment?

Silverback Community Regular

Silverback

Posted
Posted

I kinda like mine the way it is, you can still hear it within the car, but only at full noise......I do like that sound! Specially those freeway merge lanes when it tops out in 2nd........you know what I mean :):(:P

yokotas13 Mentor

yokotas13

Posted
Posted
Yeah it is easy enough, undo 2 bolts and the hoses and bolt on the new one.

Word of warning, if you are thinking of putting an atmospheric venting BOV on, you will find that all it will do is make your stag constantly stall.

unless yuo know how to use the decel air setting on an SAFC2

it fixes it

yokotas13 Mentor

yokotas13

Posted
Posted
I still dont understand why atmo bov's make your car stall???

ill try and explain and not make it sound stupid with my wording.

Basically, your MAF map has the air that is returned from your BOV automatically calculated in, which also changes depending ont eh amount of boost you make etc etc

when you vent to the atmosphere that air isnt beign returned, so the engine expereices an extremely rich condition from the added fuel it plopped in to compensate for the woosh of air from your BOV.

by using the DECEL air setup on teh SAFC2, you can eliminate the small burst of fuel and be god to go

Mr_RS4 Rising Star

Mr_RS4

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yeah I have a sard r2d2 bov on mine and was having the usual stalling problem. But now I have the SAFC its all good. I have to admit there isn't much rice in me but I love bov's. Espically when they are on a wagon, makes people go WTF??? Couple that with a very loud pod and the fact that now the stock cooler is gone I have a nice hole right under the pod (which I will make a cold air feed soon) and its sounds so cool and really gets people looking.

And about bov causing engines with air flow meters to stall grant pretty much covered that. But its not a bad idea to get and safc (only safc 2 / neo have the DECEL option btw) so you can tune your fuel mixtures and get some better fuel economy anyway, the jaycar unit will do the same but won't help you with an atmo bov.

Edited by Mr_RS4

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • uchoa
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Good tips, will get on those tomorrow. When doing the maintenance I did move a few of those connectors around, and things that are old tend to not like moving around. (Like me).
    • GTSBoy
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Don't try it. It will be shit. Better chance of damaging the engine than gaining any knowledge about the old one. Maybe, but unlikely, especially if the O2 sensor is working. You can use NissDataScan to look at the stock ECU.   Cleaning the AFM is seldom necessary and seldom helps. The R35 coil & loom conversion should eliminate dud coils or plugs. But as you still have misses - look to the plug where the coil loom connects to the engine loom, and the CAS plug. Need quality connections there. Also look to injector plugs. And the AFM plug while you're at it. Also look to whether your injectors are clean and flowing evenly. Get them out and onto a testbench.
    • uchoa
      Howdy from the states.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Good to know, I feel like I am in for a rollercoaster ride that looks like a sine wave. 
    • GTSBoy
      Howdy from the states.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You'll fit right in. Acceptance is the first step.
    • uchoa
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Hey folks. I've been lurking and browsing the forum for a while, since I got into my head that I wanted a skyline. Having purchased an overpriced completely stock GTT, (only "mods" it has is HKS pod filter and catback) now that it became legal in the US, it was all glorious and sututu noises here and there. But then I wanted to do things right and went to do basic maintenance. After all the fluids, filters done, I did the spark plugs, that's when the problems started.. First the car started spluttering at around 4.5k RPM. Which I gapped down the new plugs and that solved the sputter there, but the car now always misfires at idle with pops when lifting off and shifting 2nd to 3rd. Similar to the issues in this recent thread. I've been banging my head against the wall, reading the threads here and trying suggestions for a couple months now, so decided to start this one to explain exactly what I tried and what is going on. The symptoms of the issue: Idle and low revs misfiring intermittently. You can hear the exhaust tone change and the shakes on the shifter knob. It happens frequently, but doesn't seem to have a rhythm to it. Pops when backing off throttle. It pops and or burbles almost feels like it spits fire when it pops. (Happens mostly in 3rd gear at around 2k RPM). When under load and after 6k RPM, it also pops when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. There's a ticking noise at around 2k RPM in 2nd gear going downhill, seems unrelated though but I am out of educated and downright dumb guesses. Not noticeable lack of power when putting the car into load. The attempted diagnosis and solutions: Unplugging coils when the car is running This did nothing to change the idling and tone shift for every cylinder. Checking the exhaust headers with thermometer They all are within what I'd say it is margin of error of the laser thermometer New spark plugs Tossed two new sets, copper, iridium and using the old ones, still misfiring, even re gapped to 0.8mm, still same thing. MAF cleaned with the "specific" spray cleaner No changes in the issues what so ever. Brand new loom and r35 coil conversion (was going to add the r35 coils anyway) car runs arguably better, still misfires, but seems like does less frequently. Placebo? Code 21 now being thrown, thanks nissan gods. Removed the CAS to check the shaft for play or anything. CAS seems all fine, nothing that indicates any issue, visually speaking. Things to attempted next: Ordered a new MAF (chinesium from Amazon, to be able to return regardless of result). Fuel with proper gas, maybe it is this California water that they sell as gas that is to blame? Plugin the link ECU and check the info using the built in base map. Go back to BMW and eat my rob bearing breakfast without milky oil mixture.   Do any of you have experienced anything like this or have any suggestion?
×
×
  • Create New...