Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've recently bought a GTS25T and everytime I start the car, I can hear a constant chirping sound when the clutch is not pressed. As soon as I even touch the clutch pedal, the noise stops completely.

My mechanic has told me over the phone that it's either the throwout bearing ($800+ to fix) or the transmission (over a grand to fix).

However it's not a big sound at all, and doesn't seem like it could damage anything. It can't be the throwout bearing, because the characteristic of a worn throwout bearing is loud chirping when the clutch is pressed, not released.

So I've googled and googled, and this seems to be the most cost-effective solution, it makes sense but I just want some acknowledgement before I go and try this procedure:

"To fix the squeeling; chirping; or whirring sound that goes away as soon as you apply even the slightest pressure on the pedal. You need to replace the lubrication that has dried up at the point of the shift fork and pivot ball stud. The loss of lube has allowed it to dry up and the noise you hear is actually a frequency vibration and as soon as you put pressure on the pedal it dampens the frequency, and the noise disappears. To replace the lube do the following:

Get a can of disc brake wheel bearing grease and a small stiff brush, like an 'acid brush'

Pull the shift fork boot away from the bell housing

Push the shift fork forward, towards the front of the car. This will be difficult, but you can do it. It will probably look dry and rusty in the area of the contact of the ball stud

Now, while holding the fork forward, take the brush that has been loaded with a dab of grease, and smooth the grease around the area of the ball stud and shift fork dimple. Do this 2 or 3 times.

Replace your shift fork boot, if so equipped.

You will have eliminated the noise. As soon as you start up the engine, the noise will be gone."

What do you guys think?

i dont know about a chirping sound but i got a grinding sound when my thrust bearing was worn. $800 is over the top just to replace a thrust bearing you can get a new HD clutch + labour for that price and that includes replacing the thrust bearing too.

i got a new clutch and bearings replaced about a month ago along with a nismo pivot ball, got rid of the grinding noise but a week or so ago i think its come back again. annoying considering i got everything replaced.

interesting thought about re-greasing your pivot ball joint. would like to know if that works.

I'm all thumbs when it comes to mechanical repairs. I know it's easy to do, but I don't know where this pivot joint is, and I don't want to f it up! But it doesn't come across as serious, just annoying!

Yeah I thought $800+ for a bearing was a bit excessive too, I almost had a heart attack because they said that they had to take the whole transmission and gearbox apart. Sounds like a major job!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
×
×
  • Create New...