Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1995 Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-T

RB25DET

Price: 23,000

KMS: 102,000

Location: Melbourne

1995 Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-T

RB25DET

* HKS GT 3040 Turbo

* HKS Stainless Steel Exhaust Manifold

* HKS 1.6mm Head Gasket

* TRUST Type R External Wastegate 44mm

* TRUST/GREEDY Inlet Manifold / Plenum

* TOMEI Poncam Camshafts (Exghust & Inlet)

* APEXI Power FC + Hand Controller

* NISMO N1 Water Pump

* NISMO N1 Oil Pump

* SARD 550cc Injectors

* BLITZ Stainless Steel Air Filter

* TURBOSMART E-Boost Controller

* TRUST Type R Blow Off Valve

* SARD Fuel Pressure Reg

* TEIN HA Coil Over Suspension

* ARIAS Forged Pistons

Ported & Polished Head

Strengthed Conrods

* ISKANDARIAN Valve Springs

* KING Main Bearings

* BOSCH 044 Fuel Pump

* Custom 9 Litre Baffled Sump

* MICKS METALCRAFT Intercooler 600x350x100mm

* 18 Row Oil Cooler with Thermosta

t

* UNIQUE AUTO SPORTS 5 Puck Extra Heavy Duty Clutch

* CUSTOM Aluminium Air Filter Box

Oil Catch Can with Breather

Windscreen Wiper Bottle

90mm Front & Dump Pipe

* FUJITSUBO 90mm Exhaust System

* X-Force LP02 Stainless Steel Muffler 3.5" with 4.5" Tip

* High Flow CAT

* 90mm Q45 Air Flow Meter

* 17" Wheels with Bridgestone Potenza Semi Slicks RE-504 (Street Legal)

* Alloy Front Air Deflector

* Rear Alloy Cradle Spacers

* WHITELINE Strut Brace

* Brake Master Cylinder Brace

* HICAS HAS BEEN REMOVED

* SONY Head Unit

* SONY Xplod AMP

* KICKER Splits F & R

* KICKER AMP

* PHILIPS Crstal Vision & Diamond Vision Head Light Bulbs

* HAS FULL BLITZ BODY KIT ALL ROUND

Just had full service, new plugs etc.

Timing belt was done at 70,000kms

Made 325RWKW at 21psi with more to go.

Asking $23,000 ono serious buyers only

Any questions just ask. . . . .

This is an awesome car for an awesome price. Over 50,000 worth of engine mods.

Selling due to looking for a change.

its so clean!! in and out. . .

Contact On 0438652234

post-36119-1177201840.jpg

post-36119-1177201912.jpg

post-36119-1177202477.jpg

Edited by WAZUP
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165552-highly-modified-95-r33-gts-t/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...