Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys..

I got the R34 GTT..

everything is normal when i turn on in da morning and drive bout 60 km..

when i was in the freeway i slow down,

suddenly the boost controller turned off(greddy e-01)

and than all the light are on and the car turned off..

when i trying to start it again, wasnt been able to do so..

when i check, the boost controller cable came off, the positive and neg, and option..

it seems theres no spark to start the car.. but just got new spark plug and splitfire coilpack installed about 4 months ago..

could it be the engine comp..

where is the best place tolook first, and where is a good mechanic who can check from my house near seven hills cause i got it towed to my house

Thanks in advance, need my car back on the road..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165585-my-r34-died/
Share on other sites

did the engine ever have trouble turning over when you start it up? I had the same problem before when it crapped out on me at the end of the m2. problem was the battery was dying and decided to die right there right then. Try getting a new battery and start it up again. Maybe it could be the alternator problem???? hope that helps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165585-my-r34-died/#findComment-3066336
Share on other sites

I wouldn't recommend jump starting,

borrow a friend's battery

start the car with that

keep the car running and replace your old battery

drive for an hour turn it off and try to start the car next day

hope that helps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165585-my-r34-died/#findComment-3066432
Share on other sites

have you checked all your fuses? including the big ones in the engine bay?

what electronic parts work? headlights, fans, parker lights, internal lights, horn, etc?

does engine turn over?

if u dont have a multimeter, you should probably get one

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165585-my-r34-died/#findComment-3066610
Share on other sites

so the starter motor is working fine, engine will crank over but not start?

"when i check, the boost controller cable came off, the positive and neg, and option.."

are u saying the wires came loose?

check the fuses in the engine bay if there are any? fusable link/loop of wire ones?

consult_car.jpg

short 12Vign and Check for 2 seconds, until engine light starts blinking. count long blinks then short blinks.

5 long, 5 short = all OK. anything else is an error code for some sensor fault

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165585-my-r34-died/#findComment-3066654
Share on other sites

so the starter motor is working fine, engine will crank over but not start?

"when i check, the boost controller cable came off, the positive and neg, and option.."

are u saying the wires came loose?

check the fuses in the engine bay if there are any? fusable link/loop of wire ones?

consult_car.jpg

short 12Vign and Check for 2 seconds, until engine light starts blinking. count long blinks then short blinks.

5 long, 5 short = all OK. anything else is an error code for some sensor fault

YES THE CABLE COME LOOSE, IT SUPPOSE TO BE A PLUG, BUT LOST THE CABLE SO I USE THIS SMALL METAL THING TO CONNECT TO THE PIN..

SO 3 DIFFERENT CABLE INSTEAD OF A PLUG..

WITH THE PIC U GAVE ME, WHERE IS THAT PLUG FROM, AND WHAT YOU MEAN BY SHORT IT AND CHECK....

THANKS FOR THE REPLY

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165585-my-r34-died/#findComment-3066748
Share on other sites

sorry, thats the consult port, its located in the fuse box area (attached to the top/bottom of fuse box probably).

short = get a paper clip and connect the two pins (push ends of paper clip into the connector at those positions)

then watch the light on the dash flashing, and work out the fault code if any from number of long/short flashes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165585-my-r34-died/#findComment-3066781
Share on other sites

cant remember if the ECU will have an LED on it (older ecu's do). thats much harder to do anyway.

so yeah, take the wire out after 2 seconds (or after it starts flashing). it wont do any damage (just get the right pins, theyre the ones on the flat side of connector)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165585-my-r34-died/#findComment-3066853
Share on other sites

sorry,let me explain again..

now the car is on and started..

when its on ignition all the warning light are on,like tcs,slip,batt,handbrake.. etc

when i start the car, seatbelt,handbrake are on like normal, also the battery light

and it wont turn off.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165585-my-r34-died/#findComment-3068130
Share on other sites

r34 has voltmeter gauge? 12V when car IGN on, 13.5-14V when car is running

if its less than 13.5V when car running, alternator may be dead. i dont personally know with the R34, but my guess is that the battery light staying on means the voltage isnt above 13.5V or so, as alternator isnt working right (so your battery will eventually run out if it isnt charged)

ensure all fuses in engine bay are OK

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165585-my-r34-died/#findComment-3068175
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can see between the water jacket and cyl 3 there wasn't a hard line of combustion gas. It certainly appears that the issue is coming from there. Yes, checked the tension. All at 100ft lbs where I set them 5 years ago. These blocks can crack but generally when they have been over bored. Mine is only 0.5mm oversize at 89.5mm. They break between cylinders around the 91mm mark. No sign of that with mine. My gut feeling is the head gasket lifted a while back when the studs stretched and i bandaided it by retorquing the studs. It's finally let go.
    • My Nismo 1.5 churps a bit on reverse turns when cold, but besides that feels like a stock diff.
    • Yes, but, I paid cash and I'm pretty sure the receipt was in the bin 10 minutes after I got home Note to self, keep all receipts
    • Bunnings would have just handed you your money back on that one!
    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
×
×
  • Create New...