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Autometer Air/Fuel Guage?

MM2death

By MM2death,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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YBSLO4 Proficient

YBSLO4

Posted
Posted

Put it this way... mine is a waste of money... looks good, but thats about it. It never stands steady to be ready when driving so no point of it. Problem is the ECU continusously readjusts itself all the time and is the reason why the signal is constantly modifed and the lights bounce around so much.

skyr33 Contributor

skyr33

Posted
Posted

A/F meters are useless when ECU is in closed loop,but the moment you step on it, the meter should give stable reading.Run it on the dyno against a good A/F meter and maybe mark with texta different readings on the gauge itself.Otherwise its too generic with its Lean/stoich/Reach positions.

one8tsx Explorer

one8tsx

Posted
Posted

When cruising ( in closed loop mode) it is meant to cycle from rich to lean. That indicates that your oxy sensor is working properly.

When gunning it ( open loop) it should read rich.

The middle of the gauge is stoic (14.7:1). Only thing is, because nearly all factory oxy sensors are only narrow band, they can't tell the difference between a little lean and mega lean. Wheres proper dyno air/fuel gauges are wide band and measure from 10:1 to about 20:1 or so.

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