Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

[item SOLD]

I've got my safc2 + apexi stand for sale. it made 191.6kw on an r33 with:

-full 3" exhaust, pod, fmic, boost at 10-12psi on the standard turbo.

the bracket is glued to the back of the SAFC because the tape that comes with it is not very strong.

it comes in the original box with everything included as well as a printed off version of the DIY guide.

its a safe tune and im sure it will be fine for another r33 with the same mods.

heres a pic of my dyno run which was done at HITMAN in sydney.

post-13452-1177327702.jpg

im asking $350 (+ postage) firm at this stage (safc+tune = well over $500).

installation can also be arranged.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165781-safc-2-blue-screen-tuned-sold/
Share on other sites

yeah they are mate. your tuner can + or - fuel at 16 different points in your rev range with the safc2. i was getting 470-500km per tank with my tune.

Cheers.. will get back to you in a week or two.. if its still not sold yet!!

(got new job, and start end of week- so yea..)

Thanks

Edited by siddr20

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...