Jump to content
SAU Community

A'PEXi AVC-R -Vs- GReddy Pro-Fed B


Recommended Posts

even though the Advan GTR started as a GTS4 its had a full transplant of all the GTR gear. Even most of the panels are GTR so its more a GTR than a GTS4. The only GTS4 part I can tell really is the sunroof.... then again I don't know a great deal about it.

The japs seem to like the Profec better but then again the Apexi has the nice rice factor :)

Also if you plan to get a PowerFC the AVC-R is an easy option.

Guest SadisticRage

From a practical perspective I have a preference towards the Profec B.

Sure the AVC-R holds the title for the most bells and whistles but in reality, how many people ACTUALLY have time to utilise all its features when driving....I tend to spend more time looking where Im going.

The other concern is that the AVC-R is only a relaible form of controller up to about 1.5bar...beyond that and its accuracy is seriously compromised.

I suspect this is why most of the big name Japanese tuning houses are not using the AVC-R in high output cars.

my advice is get niether i know this will met strong criticism but hear me out:uh-huh: If you have a standard turbo get a dual stage turbo smart if you have a bigg turbo set the boost through the wastegate. Now i just havent said this blindly ive had some experience on both and from talking to an expert in tuning this is my conclusion. you see if you do a dyno run with max boost max everything the computer sets this when you run lower boost it only resets to an extent so i believe your not saving that much extra juice or whatever by running it at a lower boost you better off running your car the way its tuned all the time if this means 15psi then thats it. I have a profec b but im goin to take it off my GTR n put it on the r33 (cause my mum drives it) cause i believe that extra wiring hassle with calibration and weight are not worth the small amount of fuel i would be saving!!:( Just my 2c worth. And i know its mainly the ease of just changing boost that is the luxury just something to think about if your tryin to decide between two part for your car a fmic or a profec b for instance:rolleyes:

Guest | hype^ |

bahaha xrsist..

but you aint making any sence...

your telling me to just run what its tuned at (max boost) all the time..

then why the need for a "dual stage" bc??

besides a EBC is much more accurate ...

but the choice between the EBC and a FMI is a good point..

Originally posted by | hype^ |

bahaha xrsist..  

but you aint making any sence...

your telling me to just run what its tuned at (max boost) all the time..  

then why the need for a "dual stage" bc??  

besides a EBC is much more accurate ...  

but the choice between the EBC and a FMI is a good point..

- hahaa.. yea. one of those long days at work does that to you.

Basically what s13drifter is saying is that he would spend his

money on a fmic first before getting a EBC to keep detonation

at a minimal. You do want your engine to last don't you.. or have

you got conrods,cams new head and stuff lined up already????

If you really want to boost it, just buy a stage turbosmart or something for now.. It won't be hard to sell later.

Now back to the topic... If you really want the EBC, then by all

means get ProFec B... :uh-huh:

i agree with xrsist that the profec b is probs better unless you are goin to go to a power fc then the apexi is a better option. The reason that i suggested the daul stage bc is because it is cheap and if you really do need to use 2 different boost settings in your car. I know that they arent as accurate for curving boost spiking but unless you are willing to re callibrate your ebc often they arent as efficient in stopping boost spiking as alot of people think. Im not against them i just thought id mention other options for you Hype, cheers.

:(

Guest Impul 25T
Originally posted by 400HP

even though the Advan GTR started as a GTS4 its had a full transplant of all the GTR gear. Even most of the panels are GTR so its more a GTR than a GTS4. The only GTS4 part I can tell really is the sunroof.... then again I don't know a great deal about it.

The japs seem to like the Profec better but then again the Apexi has the nice rice factor :D  

Also if you plan to get a PowerFC the AVC-R is an easy option.

The only GTS4 bits left are the shell and chassis....

And I would agree with SadisticRage, the AVC-R isn't good above 1.5bar..... go with the ProfecB

Hype the apexi is better with a power fc cause it can be intergrated into the power fc as they are both Apexi. Im not sure on this but i think the power fc might have a extra pin in for the avc-r and maybe a sub menu through though the computer that recognises that you are using the boost controller. Can any one varify this i could of been told ****:eek:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...