Jump to content
SAU Community

A'PEXi AVC-R -Vs- GReddy Pro-Fed B


Recommended Posts

even though the Advan GTR started as a GTS4 its had a full transplant of all the GTR gear. Even most of the panels are GTR so its more a GTR than a GTS4. The only GTS4 part I can tell really is the sunroof.... then again I don't know a great deal about it.

The japs seem to like the Profec better but then again the Apexi has the nice rice factor :)

Also if you plan to get a PowerFC the AVC-R is an easy option.

Guest SadisticRage

From a practical perspective I have a preference towards the Profec B.

Sure the AVC-R holds the title for the most bells and whistles but in reality, how many people ACTUALLY have time to utilise all its features when driving....I tend to spend more time looking where Im going.

The other concern is that the AVC-R is only a relaible form of controller up to about 1.5bar...beyond that and its accuracy is seriously compromised.

I suspect this is why most of the big name Japanese tuning houses are not using the AVC-R in high output cars.

my advice is get niether i know this will met strong criticism but hear me out:uh-huh: If you have a standard turbo get a dual stage turbo smart if you have a bigg turbo set the boost through the wastegate. Now i just havent said this blindly ive had some experience on both and from talking to an expert in tuning this is my conclusion. you see if you do a dyno run with max boost max everything the computer sets this when you run lower boost it only resets to an extent so i believe your not saving that much extra juice or whatever by running it at a lower boost you better off running your car the way its tuned all the time if this means 15psi then thats it. I have a profec b but im goin to take it off my GTR n put it on the r33 (cause my mum drives it) cause i believe that extra wiring hassle with calibration and weight are not worth the small amount of fuel i would be saving!!:( Just my 2c worth. And i know its mainly the ease of just changing boost that is the luxury just something to think about if your tryin to decide between two part for your car a fmic or a profec b for instance:rolleyes:

Guest | hype^ |

bahaha xrsist..

but you aint making any sence...

your telling me to just run what its tuned at (max boost) all the time..

then why the need for a "dual stage" bc??

besides a EBC is much more accurate ...

but the choice between the EBC and a FMI is a good point..

Originally posted by | hype^ |

bahaha xrsist..  

but you aint making any sence...

your telling me to just run what its tuned at (max boost) all the time..  

then why the need for a "dual stage" bc??  

besides a EBC is much more accurate ...  

but the choice between the EBC and a FMI is a good point..

- hahaa.. yea. one of those long days at work does that to you.

Basically what s13drifter is saying is that he would spend his

money on a fmic first before getting a EBC to keep detonation

at a minimal. You do want your engine to last don't you.. or have

you got conrods,cams new head and stuff lined up already????

If you really want to boost it, just buy a stage turbosmart or something for now.. It won't be hard to sell later.

Now back to the topic... If you really want the EBC, then by all

means get ProFec B... :uh-huh:

i agree with xrsist that the profec b is probs better unless you are goin to go to a power fc then the apexi is a better option. The reason that i suggested the daul stage bc is because it is cheap and if you really do need to use 2 different boost settings in your car. I know that they arent as accurate for curving boost spiking but unless you are willing to re callibrate your ebc often they arent as efficient in stopping boost spiking as alot of people think. Im not against them i just thought id mention other options for you Hype, cheers.

:(

Guest Impul 25T
Originally posted by 400HP

even though the Advan GTR started as a GTS4 its had a full transplant of all the GTR gear. Even most of the panels are GTR so its more a GTR than a GTS4. The only GTS4 part I can tell really is the sunroof.... then again I don't know a great deal about it.

The japs seem to like the Profec better but then again the Apexi has the nice rice factor :D  

Also if you plan to get a PowerFC the AVC-R is an easy option.

The only GTS4 bits left are the shell and chassis....

And I would agree with SadisticRage, the AVC-R isn't good above 1.5bar..... go with the ProfecB

Hype the apexi is better with a power fc cause it can be intergrated into the power fc as they are both Apexi. Im not sure on this but i think the power fc might have a extra pin in for the avc-r and maybe a sub menu through though the computer that recognises that you are using the boost controller. Can any one varify this i could of been told ****:eek:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...