Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i started to do something similar but was going to use a full ecu. i bought and installed a shift kit valve body but after driving the car for about half an hour i took the shift kit back off because i found it too harsh and rather irritating to drive around normally. my understanding is that it does remove the need to have the auto computer retard the timing on the gear change but i would suggest having a ride in a car with the kit before you jump in.

i started to do something similar but was going to use a full ecu. i bought and installed a shift kit valve body but after driving the car for about half an hour i took the shift kit back off because i found it too harsh and rather irritating to drive around normally. my understanding is that it does remove the need to have the auto computer retard the timing on the gear change but i would suggest having a ride in a car with the kit before you jump in.

MMM..alot of people say its just fine with the stage 2 kit???......my question is if its worth doing and then getting a powerfc to tune it with, as some on the forum says this will work for the auto?.........also, is a shift kit faster at changing gears then say a manual??

i started to do something similar but was going to use a full ecu. i bought and installed a shift kit valve body but after driving the car for about half an hour i took the shift kit back off because i found it too harsh and rather irritating to drive around normally. my understanding is that it does remove the need to have the auto computer retard the timing on the gear change but i would suggest having a ride in a car with the kit before you jump in.

What exactly did you install?

Also, you seriously spent hours replacing the valvebody, fluid and whatever else and then changed back after half an hours driving? Are you that impatient?

First of all, you learn how to drive it differently after a couple of weeks which removes the majority of the harshness, second of all, I don't believe you. Maybe you should buy a commonwhore with slushbox. It should be nice and smooth for you.

Im seriously considering this option, as it would cost me near $4000 for a manual conversion, which i cant justify at this stage....

Heres what im thinking of getting:

Stage II vavlebody upgrade

oversize auto trans cooler

2800rpm stall converter

maybe a b&m shifter...anyone used these before????

Also, whats the electronic controller that MV auto supplies as well?,

Yeah that's why I rebuilt my auto when I blew it instead of doing the conversion but then I converted later anyway!

Mine was an R34 so already had the steering wheel shift buttons. I'm told that the B&M's are work of engineering art.

Id be doing exactly what you plan if you dont want to do the manual conversion.

Obviously you never gave it time to adjust to way the shift kit works. Im with abobob did you actually instal it cause typically you can't return an entire valve body after its been installed and driven around!

any pics of the B&M shifter in your car(prior to going manual)???.....im really considering the option, and what would the benfit be of going the ratchet shiter anyway if i went along with the valvebody upgrade???

And also, what type of ecu did you run to get into 12's in an auto mate?, i just need some good advice, im nearly sold on keeping auto, and strengthening.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
    • I would say no, why, because my daughter, who also lives in Goulburn, hasn't recommended us going there Pity, as we miss all the German joints around in Sydney, actually, the restaurants are the only thing I really miss about Sydney, and a special mention to Ishibanboshi at Bondi Junction, their Kara-age Don is heart cloggingly deliciousness (always added a special boiled egg...or 2) 😋 
    • Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around with a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
    • Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
×
×
  • Create New...