Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

from what i know, its the type of oil that racing cars use... not sure though... i don't think it can be purchased over the counter here in australia.

Uhhh no. Delvac is a diesel oil.

Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40

Diesel oils are, from my understanding, certified to higher standards due to the generally tougher operating conditions within diesel as opposed to petrol engines.

As such they are arguably a good or even the best option for using in petrol engines as they are designed for a tougher environment in the first place.

Not sure where you could get it from though sorry... perhaps a truck mechanic/supply store?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166086-mobil-1-delvac/#findComment-3083618
Share on other sites

Uhhh no. Delvac is a diesel oil.

Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40

Diesel oils are, from my understanding, certified to higher standards due to the generally tougher operating conditions within diesel as opposed to petrol engines.

As such they are arguably a good or even the best option for using in petrol engines as they are designed for a tougher environment in the first place.

Not sure where you could get it from though sorry... perhaps a truck mechanic/supply store?

Errr.. no . Don't go putting diesel oil in your skyline is my advice and also that of the oil manufacturers. It's really not a consipracy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166086-mobil-1-delvac/#findComment-3084090
Share on other sites

Errr.. no . Don't go putting diesel oil in your skyline is my advice and also that of the oil manufacturers. It's really not a consipracy.

Missed the part where I said it *was* a conspiracy actually? :)

Im not saying you should use diesel oils in a skyline, nor in any other petrol engined car for that matter.

I am also not saying that diesel oils are better to use - just outlining what I understand to be the reasoning behind some peoples opinions who do. Like I said, they are 'arguably' a better choice.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166086-mobil-1-delvac/#findComment-3085218
Share on other sites

Missed the part where I said it *was* a conspiracy actually? :)

Im not saying you should use diesel oils in a skyline, nor in any other petrol engined car for that matter.

I am also not saying that diesel oils are better to use - just outlining what I understand to be the reasoning behind some peoples opinions who do. Like I said, they are 'arguably' a better choice.

Ahh... I see.

I just found new evidence that supports 'conspiracy' , you were right!

Also as some have argued for diesel oil to be used in petrol engines, I would like to add using premix two stroke oil into the 'arguably' a better choice bracket too as a replacement :laughing-smiley-014:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166086-mobil-1-delvac/#findComment-3085409
Share on other sites

Just do a quick search on the forums for Delvac, many guys here use the stuff.

Quoting cubes from another post

If you really want to clean her up throw some Mobil Delvac 1 in. Its a diesel full synth 5w40 and can be picked up for under $60 ($50 here in Adelaide)

Don't let diesel scare you, its perfectly fine in a petrol engine and meets the API SL specification for gasoline engines, mobil state so them selves.

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS...vac_1_5W-40.asp

OR.. Even better, throw Motul 300v through it, nothing cleans like an ester based oil. smile.gif

Bob is the Oil Guy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166086-mobil-1-delvac/#findComment-3085465
Share on other sites

I'll generalise a bit:

Diesel oils contain very high amounts of detergents to remove carbon build up. That's why the oil goes black so quickly in a diesel, when the oil's doing its job correctly.

Use it in a petrol and you get the same result, bye bye carbon seal and hello blow-by.

USED to be popular with race engines in the olden days before modern synthetics etc came onto the scene, but that's hardly a recommendation for the every day car engine.

If you really want to ruin your petrol engine's carbon seal try some 2-stroke diesel oil. That's super high detergent to keep ports, pegged rings etc clear from carbon.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166086-mobil-1-delvac/#findComment-3086923
Share on other sites

Ill start by saying that in the US where Delvac 1 (fully synthetic 5w-40) is readily available, it is a very popular choice for enthusiasts, and it has always given good UOA results.

I use it in my Skyline and have not noticed any adverse effects compared to the petrol engine oil i was using before although I have not done any UOA so i cant say for sure, but for the price is is a great engine oil.

Now to quote Mobil themselves :

" Question:

Mobil 1 vs. Mobil Delvac 1® for a Gasoline Engine

I have read on the Internet that Mobil Delvac 1 oils may provide better performance in high-performance passenger-car engines than regular Mobil 1, since they meet CF-4 specs. What about using Delvac in gasoline engines, especially high-performance engines?

-- "Tribological", Richmond, VA

Answer:

Mobil 1 formulas will deliver everything you need for your gasoline engine. In fact, during development, tests are run in both gasoline and diesel engines to demonstrate the superior performance of Mobil 1. Mobil Delvac 1, which is designed for heavy-duty diesels, meets most diesel engine oil specifications, and also meets API SL certification. And because Delvac 1 operates in a different environment – diesel engines run longer, generate soot and run hotter, it contains different types and amounts of additives than Mobil 1. Even so, Delvac 1 still meets API SL certification for gasoline engines, and because of its high performance, we would expect it to do a good job of protecting your gasoline engine. If you use your gasoline vehicle in "heavy-duty" service, Delvac 1 will provide many benefits compared to conventional oils. When compared to Mobil 1 performance, those benefits may not be as obvious, and in fact, Mobil 1 would be expected to outperform Delvac 1 in many gasoline applications. "

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorO...ine_Engine.aspx

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166086-mobil-1-delvac/#findComment-3087249
Share on other sites

I have used diesel oil in a petrol engine in the past to clean it out between oil changes, engine run at idle (V8 pushrod motors with lots of kms on them). With a motor thats run synthetic all it's life you would never require this.

Because of the soot you need a high amount of detergent in a diesel oil but, there is a sacrifice in the percentage of this vs the actual lubricant in the mixture. That sacrifice is lubrication protection. Not to mention the additional wash down reaction between the petrol and the higher levels of lubricant in the diesel oil. Diesel puts alot of soot everywhere including the bores, so the diesel oil to suit washes it off better. Those same detergents help a little to pull fuel into the oil as a down side. This happens with any oil and it's one of the reasons to change oil regularly. If you have an engine that has large cams / poor mixtures off idle etc this by itself effects oil change intervals, rich mixtures mean shorter intervals.

To put it another way; How much does your engine need cleaning Vs how much lubrication protection. Mobil 1 won't do a better job of performing in an RB if you bung in more detergents. My understanding is that Delvac will therfore need more frequent changes to remain effective in a petrol motor and I'm quite sure the level of lubrication protection is significantly down on it compared to fully synthetic oils designed for petrol engines.

At basically the same cost as a fully synthetic oil actually designed for high performance petrol engines I think getting some delvac into the motor is a nice big step backwards and terrible value for money.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166086-mobil-1-delvac/#findComment-3087468
Share on other sites

At basically the same cost as a fully synthetic oil actually designed for high performance petrol engines I think getting some delvac into the motor is a nice big step backwards and terrible value for money.

Delvac 1 which is what i have referred to is a fully synthetic oil. There is a cheaper version of Delvac which is not fully synthetic. Mobil 1 is approx $70/5L, Delvac 1 is $50-60/5L, so i dont think that makes is terrible value for money.

Im sure the points you have made are valid but you are generalising.

Delvac one has a HT/HS of 4.1, Mobil 1 has s HT/HS of 4.2, they are not significantly different in their level of protection.

Edit: When i say Mobil i mean the 5w-50.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166086-mobil-1-delvac/#findComment-3088240
Share on other sites

Delvac 1 which is what i have referred to is a fully synthetic oil. There is a cheaper version of Delvac which is not fully synthetic. Mobil 1 is approx $70/5L, Delvac 1 is $50-60/5L, so i dont think that makes is terrible value for money.

Im sure the points you have made are valid but you are generalising.

Delvac one has a HT/HS of 4.1, Mobil 1 has s HT/HS of 4.2, they are not significantly different in their level of protection.

Edit: When i say Mobil i mean the 5w-50.

I appreciate that the Delvac 1 is fully synthetic. The reason for the discrepancy in price is most likely the ratio of detergent to synthetic oil content.Diesel fuel isn't too shabby as a combustion chamber / bore lubricant compared to petrol which isn't.The additional difference on a motor that runs high sustained rpm (unlike a diesel) is bearing life (mains and big end).

I would suggest that spending $10 more to better protect an engine worth many thousands is always a good move. . The diesel oil is quite simply a very bad choice for a motor like the reving RB sixes in my opinion.All of the race engine builders I know (not that I know all that many) favour the petrol intended products bar none, this includes pushrod v8 guys.

Proceed with caution, it hasn't taken the world by storm and there is a good reason for it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166086-mobil-1-delvac/#findComment-3089762
Share on other sites

I appreciate that the Delvac 1 is fully synthetic. The reason for the discrepancy in price is most likely the ratio of detergent to synthetic oil content.Diesel fuel isn't too shabby as a combustion chamber / bore lubricant compared to petrol which isn't.The additional difference on a motor that runs high sustained rpm (unlike a diesel) is bearing life (mains and big end).

I would suggest that spending $10 more to better protect an engine worth many thousands is always a good move. . The diesel oil is quite simply a very bad choice for a motor like the reving RB sixes in my opinion.All of the race engine builders I know (not that I know all that many) favour the petrol intended products bar none, this includes pushrod v8 guys.

Proceed with caution, it hasn't taken the world by storm and there is a good reason for it.

Well according to plenty of UOAs from plenty of people using Delvac 1 in their petrol engines there is only evidence that it protects the engine very well. There is no evidence of more wear on any part of the engine compared with other good quality full synth engine oils.

In some ways the Devlac 1 is regarded as a better formulation than M1 5w-50 due to less viscosity modifier(more base stock) and better additives.

I dont think the generalisation that you shouldn't run diesel oils in a petrol engine applies when talking about Delvac 1, and I don't see how the opinion of race engine builders applies when considering the lubrication requirements for a factory built road driven engine with long drain intervals.

Caution is not required, results show otherwise :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166086-mobil-1-delvac/#findComment-3090120
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...