Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi I have a R33 gtst. My car no matter if its hot or cold will not idle. This is what it does car starts easy, revs to 1900 rpm,drops to 1500, pause, then to 1000 for a sec then dies. Stalls all the time. Runs perfect above 1500 rpm.

I have a HKS Sq BOV.

I have tried so far:

Cleaning Acc valve and all that muck out of the back of the plenum

Repacing fuel filter

setting the TPS

Turning Idle screw in and out with the TPS disconected ( For some reson the IDle does not change 1 bit weather i turn it in or out)

Cleaning out the AFM

Located where the Ecu idle screw should be, to find the isnt 1 on it

checked for leaks

what have i missed? Can someone help me out please!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166540-r33-idle-problem-need-some-help/
Share on other sites

1. Go back to your stock bov

2. Get a plumb back bov

3. Get a tune

your atmo bov will be releasing a lot of air into the atmosphere, yet your air flow comp will read it as being in the system, so the fuel will be added as if there is that amount of air in there... but its not... any of the 3 will fix this problem... normally an atmo bov wont cause it to completely die at idle, it does create idling and gear changing problems, but not normall this bad... which is why i said get a tune..

anyway, hope one of those fixes it for you :P

the bov i have i think is a plub bak though ( is that where a vacuum line sucks the valve open cuse its one of those) I dunno.

u know any tuning garages on the sunny coast?

thanks

a hks ssqv bov is atmo unless you have the recirc kit. is the plumback line blocked off?

Had the same problem...was running a HKS bov..and the car wont idle properly..only to find theres a slight vacuum leak from the HKS BOV as its a Atmo BOV..i put the stock BOV back and plumb it back into my intake pipe..problem gone..like wat DRD OFF said..the afm is gettin weird reading cos of the atmo BOV..

Had the same problem...was running a HKS bov..and the car wont idle properly..only to find theres a slight vacuum leak from the HKS BOV as its a Atmo BOV..i put the stock BOV back and plumb it back into my intake pipe..problem gone..like wat DRD OFF said..the afm is gettin weird reading cos of the atmo BOV..

man what the hell is drd off? :wave:

as for the original poster, you might want to save up some money and get a tune, you will notice that your car will run a shit load better... most well tuned skylines with atmo bovs wont actually stall, but if yours is, its a bit under the weather and could use a check up :wave:

i think you will like the change :unsure:

  • 2 years later...

please try an alternate stock ECU

my old ECU was fried and i drove a car like this for 6 months lol - not fun looking like a tool revving your car at every set of lights.

swap it out and see if you know someone with an stock ECU'd r33

hi guys

May not be the problem but i found info in regards to small cracks/holes in the little vacuum line on the turbo

Also my car played up bad one day turned out the boost/vacuum line to my gauge was leaking a little causing same problems as listed above

I would go round the engine bay with a can of carby clean or start ya basterd and see if there is any leaks else were i know you said you checked for leaks but it dose'nt take much to create a problem

happy leak hunting

Hi I have a R33 gtst. My car no matter if its hot or cold will not idle. This is what it does car starts easy, revs to 1900 rpm,drops to 1500, pause, then to 1000 for a sec then dies. Stalls all the time. Runs perfect above 1500 rpm.

I have a HKS Sq BOV.

I have tried so far:

Cleaning Acc valve and all that muck out of the back of the plenum

Repacing fuel filter

setting the TPS

Turning Idle screw in and out with the TPS disconected ( For some reson the IDle does not change 1 bit weather i turn it in or out)

Cleaning out the AFM

Located where the Ecu idle screw should be, to find the isnt 1 on it

checked for leaks

what have i missed? Can someone help me out please!

Make sure your fuel pump dropping resistor is plugged in. If any work has been done on the aerial recently it is possible the resistor plug has been unplugged. It is located in the passenger side rear cavity behind the wheel arch (where the jack is located). It is a rectangular silver item with a 2 pin plug.

Cheers

Ben

You sorta can and you sorta can't. Do some research on Nistune.

Are you running an after market plumb back BOV? What else is installed?

i've also got a hdi GT spec hybrid intercooler, aftermarket coilpacks, a boost controller (only running 10 pound) and a HKS cat back exaughst system.. apart from that i'm stock.. i've checked for leaky hoses and i've tried a different ECU and i've replaced my air flow sensor..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
×
×
  • Create New...