Gtr Pump Questions!

[MANWHORE]

I forgot the part number fro the tank seal, but it was around 17$ rrp (cheaper trade) from memory. No point even trying to find aftermarket for that price.

[benl1981]

Well I just rang nissan and they said $31 ..

Does anyone do an aftermarket seal?

I gave them code 17342-79900

Should have got the tomei kit

[MANWHORE]

You could have taken up my offer to install it for you before

Also, if you knew what i'm not allowed to say about the gtr pump, you'd think twice about that

[benl1981]

Its cool mate. It's just that my seal wasn't good enough to reuse.

Whats this secret you've got ..ahahah

[MANWHORE]

Haha, yeah, i know mate.

If I told you i'd have to kill you

[benl1981]

Ive just installed the GTR pump. Quite noisy but then again I only have about 10L of fuel in the tank. Can hear it wirring away. Might take it out one day and put some rubber around the pump in between the hose clamp.

I was worried the pump might be on the way out but it seems that a few people seem to find them noisy.

I tried to keep it from resting on the tank but it was pretty tight in the R33gtst. Its a sedan so I'm not sure if the tank is a different shape.

Anybody pulled them out to put rubber in there and found it reduces the noise?

Thanks

[benl1981]

Well I just put 40L of petrol in and it is possibly even louder.

Seems to be only noticeable at idle but it is a very loud buzzing.

I'm going to definitely have to take it out again and try again.

Should have got the tomei pump!!

Hopefully the pumps not shagged

[sxc33]

Ive just installed the GTR pump. Quite noisy but then again I only have about 10L of fuel in the tank. Can hear it wirring away. Might take it out one day and put some rubber around the pump in between the hose clamp.

I was worried the pump might be on the way out but it seems that a few people seem to find them noisy.

I tried to keep it from resting on the tank but it was pretty tight in the R33gtst. Its a sedan so I'm not sure if the tank is a different shape.

Anybody pulled them out to put rubber in there and found it reduces the noise?

Thanks

I did this to my sedan about 3/4 weeks ago, the pump is bit noiser than the standard one. I did a search about it on here and the noise is common. I got the stanley knife out and clipped a few bits outta the rubber mount, and am still getting the buzzing. I personally have no dramas with it at all, its not that big a deal.

Be interested to know if the tank is different between the sedan and the coupe. Any body have any clues?

[benl1981]

Thanks for the reply.

Mine is quite a lot noisier which makes me think the pump might be on the way out.

I will try and put some rubber around it and see if I can prevent it from touching the tank.

[benl1981]

Maybe the brushes are worn?

I don't like the pump being noisy. Are the walbros quiet or the tomei?

[Sydneykid]

Let's see if I can either remove the confusion or add to it.

1. I have never had a GTR pump make more noise then fail. Noise and failure are unrelated based on my experience. If the pump is noisy, then 99.9% you haven't installed it correctly. ie; it is touching the tank wall and/or floor.

2. Cable ties are fuel resistent, I use them to hold the filter (sock) in the right place. Don't need or use the circlip.

3. The device on the top of the pump is the anti syphon valve, it stops the fuel running back from the fuel rail and making the car slow to start. The fuel rail is higher than the tank, so fuel runs back into the tank when the pump isn't pumping. The anti syphon valve means fuel is always in the lines, no waiting for the fuel pump to pump fuel all the way up to the rail before the engine will start.

4. Talking about installing the fuel pump in an R33 takes longer than actually doing it. R32's fuel pumps are a piece of cake compared to R33's because of the accessability of the tank and its shape.

5. The pump earths via the terminals on the top, it doesn't need earthing via the body to work (pump). The body earthing is a back up (safety) link, in case the earth wire breaks and a spark jumps from the (unearthed) pump body to the bracket. I have only seen this on R34's where Nissan added insulation to dampen the noise. The larger pumps in R32's, R33's and Z32's also had insulation, but no earthing. So it is obviously a later thought by Nissan. Personally I don't worry about it.

6. The dual voltage for high and low fuel flow is controlled by the fuel pump relays, the low flow circuit has a resister in it to lower the voltage. The high flow circuit runs direct (no resister). The ECU controls the relays.

7. If you install an aftermarket pump incorrectly (ie; touching the tank floor or walls) they will make just as much noise as a GTR pump that is incorrectly installed. They will also not pick up the low fuel if you install them incorrectly as well.

8. Make sure you install the filter (sock) EXACTLY as it was with the standard pump. So pay attention to the orientation when you remove the standard pump. Don't pull it apart and then try and guess/remember where everything goes.

9. Walbro fuel pumps are NOT a good idea on turbocharged engines, I would never use one on a Skyline.

10. All the effort is worth it in the end, we have an R33GTR running 304 rwkw on the standard pump with a separate (dedicated) relay. They have plenty of capacity, if you install them correctly.

cheers

[benl1981]

Thanks SK.

I might have to put the rubber in then to quieten it down and watch where it's resting. If cable ties are ok then maybe I should take of the S/steel hose clamp and use those to attach it to the cradle. Atleast then there isn't the bulbous piece of the clamp getting in the way.

I did take an approximate view of where the orientation of the sock is. Hopefully I got it close enough.

When you say you cable tied it did you just tighten up the cable tie on the plastic of the part of the sock that mates to the pump? Did this generate enough pressure to stop it from spinning around?

Thanks SK!

Edited May 14, 2007 by benl1981

[Sydneykid]

Thanks SK.

I might have to put the rubber in then to quieten it down and watch where it's resting. If cable ties are ok then maybe I should take of the S/steel hose clamp and use those to attach it to the cradle. Atleast then there isn't the bulbous piece of the clamp getting in the way.

I did take an approximate view of where the orientation of the sock is. Hopefully I got it close enough.

When you say you cable tied it did you just tighten up the cable tie on the plastic of the part of the sock that mates to the pump? Did this generate enough pressure to stop it from spinning around?

Thanks SK!

I cables tied the filter (sock) mounting to the hose clamp.

I use 2 hose clamps to hold the pump to the bracket, get the orientation right and they clear OK.

cheers

[benl1981]

Ok thanks.

So would it look something like this (see below). You just use one cable tie around the lug feature (of mounting of the old sock) that usually locates to the post then tie that to the hose clamp?

And Sk do you usually use some rubber?

Do you have any piccies of your pump assembly/setup?

Edited May 14, 2007 by benl1981

[MANWHORE]

That's exactly what I did, and that's what I said above. 2 hose clamps. spot where you've got it in your picture.

They're $1.99 man

How tight did you do up the hose clamps? I do them up really tight.

Tomei/Nismo pump sounds exactly the same (if I could tell you me info, it would explain why too).

Feel free to compare it to my car (installed properly).

edited: hose clamps not cable ties

Edited May 14, 2007 by MANWHORE

[benl1981]

You mean hose clamps?

This is like buzzing bees - very loud!

[sxc33]

Let's see if I can either remove the confusion or add to it.

1. I have never had a GTR pump make more noise then fail. Noise and failure are unrelated based on my experience. If the pump is noisy, then 99.9% you haven't installed it correctly. ie; it is touching the tank wall and/or floor.

2. Cable ties are fuel resistent, I use them to hold the filter (sock) in the right place. Don't need or use the circlip.

3. The device on the top of the pump is the anti syphon valve, it stops the fuel running back from the fuel rail and making the car slow to start. The fuel rail is higher than the tank, so fuel runs back into the tank when the pump isn't pumping. The anti syphon valve means fuel is always in the lines, no waiting for the fuel pump to pump fuel all the way up to the rail before the engine will start.

4. Talking about installing the fuel pump in an R33 takes longer than actually doing it. R32's fuel pumps are a piece of cake compared to R33's because of the accessability of the tank and its shape.

5. The pump earths via the terminals on the top, it doesn't need earthing via the body to work (pump). The body earthing is a back up (safety) link, in case the earth wire breaks and a spark jumps from the (unearthed) pump body to the bracket. I have only seen this on R34's where Nissan added insulation to dampen the noise. The larger pumps in R32's, R33's and Z32's also had insulation, but no earthing. So it is obviously a later thought by Nissan. Personally I don't worry about it.

6. The dual voltage for high and low fuel flow is controlled by the fuel pump relays, the low flow circuit has a resister in it to lower the voltage. The high flow circuit runs direct (no resister). The ECU controls the relays.

7. If you install an aftermarket pump incorrectly (ie; touching the tank floor or walls) they will make just as much noise as a GTR pump that is incorrectly installed. They will also not pick up the low fuel if you install them incorrectly as well.

8. Make sure you install the filter (sock) EXACTLY as it was with the standard pump. So pay attention to the orientation when you remove the standard pump. Don't pull it apart and then try and guess/remember where everything goes.

9. Walbro fuel pumps are NOT a good idea on turbocharged engines, I would never use one on a Skyline.

10. All the effort is worth it in the end, we have an R33GTR running 304 rwkw on the standard pump with a separate (dedicated) relay. They have plenty of capacity, if you install them correctly.

cheers

Awesome help there mate. Even though i have already done, it does interest me a lot to jnow about how and what otheres know and hae encountered.

And Ben1981, my cradle was re-installed the exact same way as stock. The sock is on the same angle, there is no movement where i cable tied it all up, i wouldn't stress it eh.

[MANWHORE]

You mean hose clamps?

This is like buzzing bees - very loud!

hose clamps $1.99

If it's very loud, it's rattling on something. my stock pump could be heard - gtr pump will be heard louder because it is a bigger pump, but not very loud.

[MANWHORE]

Let's see if I can either remove the confusion or add to it.

1. I have never had a GTR pump make more noise then fail. Noise and failure are unrelated based on my experience. If the pump is noisy, then 99.9% you haven't installed it correctly. ie; it is touching the tank wall and/or floor.

2. Cable ties are fuel resistent, I use them to hold the filter (sock) in the right place. Don't need or use the circlip.

3. The device on the top of the pump is the anti syphon valve, it stops the fuel running back from the fuel rail and making the car slow to start. The fuel rail is higher than the tank, so fuel runs back into the tank when the pump isn't pumping. The anti syphon valve means fuel is always in the lines, no waiting for the fuel pump to pump fuel all the way up to the rail before the engine will start.

4. Talking about installing the fuel pump in an R33 takes longer than actually doing it. R32's fuel pumps are a piece of cake compared to R33's because of the accessability of the tank and its shape.

5. The pump earths via the terminals on the top, it doesn't need earthing via the body to work (pump). The body earthing is a back up (safety) link, in case the earth wire breaks and a spark jumps from the (unearthed) pump body to the bracket. I have only seen this on R34's where Nissan added insulation to dampen the noise. The larger pumps in R32's, R33's and Z32's also had insulation, but no earthing. So it is obviously a later thought by Nissan. Personally I don't worry about it.

6. The dual voltage for high and low fuel flow is controlled by the fuel pump relays, the low flow circuit has a resister in it to lower the voltage. The high flow circuit runs direct (no resister). The ECU controls the relays.

7. If you install an aftermarket pump incorrectly (ie; touching the tank floor or walls) they will make just as much noise as a GTR pump that is incorrectly installed. They will also not pick up the low fuel if you install them incorrectly as well.

8. Make sure you install the filter (sock) EXACTLY as it was with the standard pump. So pay attention to the orientation when you remove the standard pump. Don't pull it apart and then try and guess/remember where everything goes.

9. Walbro fuel pumps are NOT a good idea on turbocharged engines, I would never use one on a Skyline.

10. All the effort is worth it in the end, we have an R33GTR running 304 rwkw on the standard pump with a separate (dedicated) relay. They have plenty of capacity, if you install them correctly.

cheers

Nice points there gary. I agree 100% with what you said. Install is everything. IMO, the rubber on the later pumps is a waste of time and money. when I install the pumps, I just pop the rubber out. last install was done on a car with very very limited space. the rubber doesn't make any difference if it's clamped on properly. I find the rubber makes it more likely to buzz on the tank if it's mounted at the side (like the r33). rubber touching the tank still buzzes just lke metal touching the tank.

Installing it into the r33 was actually pretty simple for us (no dramas at all)

[benl1981]

Its a buzzing noise. Very loud. The clamp is very tight. It possibly might be resting on something...Ill have to check. Its a very tight fit. I find it hard to believe that you can get it so it isn't touching somewhere. There must be a very small gap in some areas (around 2-5mm). THe rubber shoud still stop some of the vibration/noise transmission. SK did you use rubber?

Did you use the cable tie as shown in my pic SK?

I bought heaps of hose clamps so I'm not being cheap Chris

It's definately not liveable the way it is. I'll have another go on the weekend when I'm down to ~10 litres fuel again.

Pain of a job though.

Edited May 14, 2007 by benl1981