Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

i got an odd problem which i just cant figure out

just to get some stuff out of the way, my car drives fine during the day doesnt miss a beat, its rb25det with exhaust and pod bleed valve usual stuff everyones got runnin 10psi (in cefiro)

ok so day time is fine no headlights on (of course) but no matter what time of day or night when i turn on my headlights the car will drive fine then bog down real bad at random ! in all gears, say goin round a round about in 2nd n go to power out and it just splutters n makes all these really weird noises cant tell if its a missfire, feels like it though.. it will do it every now and then but without a doubt will do it at some point, off boost, coming onto boost or full boost will jerk around and stuff but turn off the lights and everything goes back to normal..

when you floor it on highway it will stuff around then stablilse but still doesnt feel strong

i want to upgrade to HID lights but want to get this out of the way first...

i dont understand how the headlights would affect the performance of my car, my turbo timer in volts mode always reads 12.3+ at the extreme lowest and boost gauge reads 18-20vac when off throttle..

if anyone has any ideas or sugestions that would be great

im gettin sick of avoiding driving at night but thats my fav time !! :blink:

thanks

thanks guys for the info, should any auto elec be able to sort this out?

and yeh if the lights are on during day it will play up..

i know i enough about the stuff to check earths n that but not much more..

does mobile auto elec cost heaps more than if i was to go in?

thanks

sounds like ur alternator might be on its way to the scrap bin get a multi meter put it on ur battery should show charge upwards of 12v then turn ur lights on if it drops below 12v then ur not gettin enough charge and u need to get ur alternator replaced

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...