Jump to content
SAU Community

Microtech Dwell Setting.

dead32

By dead32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

dead32 Mentor

dead32

Posted
Posted

hey fella's this post is directed mainly towards engine tuners or people familiar with microtech lt12. i reccently instaled wasted spark to my car and now i needa adjust the dwell timming, i know what its gota be at, just dont know how to change it correctly and i dont wana stuff it up, ive read over the microtech book and used google cant find what im after, basicaly if someone in the know could help me with a step by step to adjusting it, i.e scroll ref down 3 times or something simlar, or even a picture of the handset screen i needa look for, that would be great, thanks in advance for any help comming my way.. :blink:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/167179-microtech-dwell-setting/
Share on other sites
KW KING Rookie

KW KING

Posted
Posted

hey fella's this post is directed mainly towards engine tuners or people familiar with microtech lt12. i reccently instaled wasted spark to my car and now i needa adjust the dwell timming, i know what its gota be at, just dont know how to change it correctly and i dont wana stuff it up, ive read over the microtech book and used google cant find what im after, basicaly if someone in the know could help me with a step by step to adjusting it, i.e scroll ref down 3 times or something simlar, or even a picture of the handset screen i needa look for, that would be great, thanks in advance for any help comming my way.. :blink:

[/quote

Ring Microtech - different setups need different dwells . Do not tou

ck this yourself as you willi grenade the motor first rev if you dont know what your doing . It is like advancing your timing 30deg + if its wrong . Trust me , my mate cost himself $10,000 + trying this himself - it only took 5 seconds to happen . Take it to a dyno expert .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...