Jump to content
SAU Community

Serious Pinging At 1000rpm

jessr33

By jessr33,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

jessr33 Collaborator

jessr33

Posted
Posted

I have a 1996 R33 Series 2 GTS-T with fmic, full exhast, k&n pod, turbosmart bov, manual boost controller approx 10psi, also run on 98 octane which was running great until I got in it tonight and revved it to 1grand before releasing my clutch as normal and my car immediately started pinging loudly. It sounds like two metal objects banging together and doesn't stop until idling.

Before I continue, my car does suffers from a minor stalling issue where the car drops rev's dramatically when I put my clutch in and either dies or bounces back off 0rpm.... (this is only approx once a week, not a very frequent occurrence, I drive my car approx 75kms a day). My car also has a very low idle approx 600rpm.

I have already put octane booster in the fuel in case I had accidentally put in regular fuel however this did not make a difference.

I have left my car for 5 hours in a garage (so not exposed to the rain as I has been raining all day) thinking that possibly the pod or anything had gotten wet and caused it??? Hoping the best I start my car up and it immediately started pinning just above idle.

Any suggestions???????

I am completely stumped!!!!

Please help!!!!!!!!!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/167497-serious-pinging-at-1000rpm/
Share on other sites
Kinks Grand Master

Kinks

Posted
Posted

never heard a car ping at idle. your ignition timing would have to be spastically off for that to be the case.

my car does tick quite noticeably at idle, and if i crack the throttle open and give it another 350rpm then the ticking stops. i think it's just the normal injectors or one of the idle control circuits at work. not worried about it.

adam-__- Grand Master

adam-__-

Posted
Posted

Maybe check if all your intercooler pipes are tight aswell if your suffering from stalling issues. Could be a leak somewhere. I remember one of my clamps went loose after a quick squirt and the car started to drop revs with the clutch in.

jessr33 Collaborator

jessr33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for your contribution guys! Really has ruled out a lot of possibilities for me!

Haven't solved the problem as of yet however if I can't figure it out for myself after another 24 hours I will go take it to a mechanic!

Any type of mechanic??? Should I just have it taken to Nissan or does it not really matter??? (I've never taken my skyline to a mechanic, I service mine myself every 5000kms)

I really don't want to drive it, my partner can hear the noise coming out of the exhaust as well as the engine! Really worried driving will just make it worse!!!

BOOSTA Collaborator

BOOSTA

Posted
Posted

Have you checked your oil level? I know it sounds silly but that tapping sound will be either low oil. Maybe the tappets? if your car has gone a few k's or either your oil is really dirty and just taking its sweet time to lubricate the engine.

Injector sounds are no-where near as loud as tappets/low oil tapping and the fact that the tapping starts at 1'000rpm i'd say could be not enough oil getting to tappets etc.

jessr33 Collaborator

jessr33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I've checked my oil level, I changed it about 3000kms ago I believe, I double checked my oil last night and its gone darker since friday night??? does that mean anything? The oil level isn't low at all though! What else could cause the tappets making the noise? not enough oil isn't the answer and I don't feel that the oil is that dirty??? It nearly needs replacing but not that bad.

the car has barely been run, but for the short amount of time that it has I wouldn't have thought it was enough to change the whole colour???

the car drops revs very rarely and very randomly, doesn't happen often anymore in comparison to a month ago and I haven't changed anything. It mainly drops to 0rmp and bounces back up when I do a short burst of acc and then placing the clutch in to stop all of a sudden??? Never when the engine is cold!

The car starts fine, the car drives fine, just makes this damn noise! It is no longer pinging as far as I can tell!

The noise I believe I can hear sounds like the injectors when car is stationary and not in gear, when I start driving it the noise becomes louder and faster??? Sound stays the same just louder and faster???

Driving me nuts! I'm driving my partners old skyline now, nearly put my foot through the floor from his ridiculously light clutch!!! haha! I want my car back!!!!!

Anyone think it could be a particular sensor failing???

shenronR33 Community Regular

shenronR33

Posted
Posted

it could be something in the oil like abit of water that could be making the pinging but not sure the idling issue could be ur bov if u have one. if the airs not getting though right it will go stupid like that i blocked my bov of and i would go nuts and when ur at the lights u would have to rev it and when u put ur foot on the clutch it would die.

bluey33 Experienced

bluey33

Posted
Posted

Sounds like lifters to me. since u need an oil change soon anyways try puttin a THICK oil in the car (HPR50). This might free up the lifter. You dont need low oil for lifter to be making noise.

Even buy lifter treatment (nulon stuff) and put it in with thick oil, then let car run for bit then take it for a drive. Drive it for 5-10min then it should go away, if not then you may need new lifters.

Once you have done this i would recommend puttin the lighter more suited oil back in.

I would try this as it is a cheap way to determine/fix the problem. If you dont succeed take it to a workshop

jessr33 Collaborator

jessr33

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Sounds like lifters to me. since u need an oil change soon anyways try puttin a THICK oil in the car (HPR50). This might free up the lifter. You dont need low oil for lifter to be making noise.

Even buy lifter treatment (nulon stuff) and put it in with thick oil, then let car run for bit then take it for a drive. Drive it for 5-10min then it should go away, if not then you may need new lifters.

Once you have done this i would recommend puttin the lighter more suited oil back in.

I would try this as it is a cheap way to determine/fix the problem. If you dont succeed take it to a workshop

Found out what the problem is............ Need to replace my exhaust manifold gasket.... don't ask me how it was causing all of those problems especially the pinging but thats the only thing wrong with my car!!!!!

Thanks for everyone's help!!!!!!!

P.S Now I have to replace it... where do I buy a manifold gasket from???

Edited by jessr33
jessr33 Collaborator

jessr33

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Nissan !

Glad it was only a small problem after all of that

Yeah we shall be finding out tonight on whether its the 'only' problem with my car but how the guy explained it, it made sense!

Can't wait to have her running properly again!

genuine nissan part so at least I know its the real deal!!!

Cheers guys!!!!!!

Edited by jessr33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • Butters
      R34 GTR Speedo Drive , sensor type ?

      By Butters · Posted

      Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...