Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My girlfriend is looking to buy a new car in a few months and she wants to get a new car but doesn't want to spend the new price for an sti so she's looking at wrx. I'm thinking she should save taking the brand new car hit and buy a used sti. I've never been in a wrx so I'm not sure what they are like, but my friend had an sti and I loved it so I am partial to sti. What do you think? As far as used goes we're looking at 2005+.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168547-new-wrx-or-used-sti/
Share on other sites

Is she concerned about ride comfort? If so, don't get the Sti. She should really go for a test drive of both first and figure out why she would want an Sti in the first place. Buying new she will be faced with a steep depreciation whereas used this has already been factored in. Maybe just go for a 2005 WRX?

Yes, but don't forget about me! I suppose that's all it would really take though. She loves fast cars, so a drive in a wrx then one in an sti and I'd imagine her desicion is easier for her.

For some reason a big selling point to a brand new car is the factory warranty. She wants to have full advantage of the factory warranty for as long as possible. She doesn't really expect to keep the car for more than a few years but who knows. So buying a used car, that's possibly a big part of the warranty already gone.

Well I'd imagine new or used would come with a 3 year warranty. So buying an 06' model with 2 years left would be a better deal. Very rarely will anything go wrong in the first 3 years anyway. That's why Subaru are willing to give this away with a new car.

The new model WRX looks like crap (IMHO).

Having owned both models, I would recommend trying to find a good-specimen

secondhand 2.5L WRX (not STi); because it will be cheaper and go very nearly as hard.

My stock 06 2.5 STi is slower around OP south and Wakefield than my old lightly-modified

98 2.0 WRX with the same driver (me). No doubt some of this is tyres, some is brakes, and

some is familiarity - the gap (approx. 1.5 sec) exists, and is reproducible. Sure, they're rough,

slow circuits, but... the gap exists.

No doubt the STI is a good stock car; and tastefully-modified will bring it to my GT-R

on pretty much every circuit I've been on bar EC and PI. But it's a heck of a premium

to pay for the goodies (try $10k-ish).

If you were looking at roughly the same money for a 2.5 STi as a 2.5 WRX, buy the STi.

But I doubt that will happen anytime soon :)

Regards,

Saliya

I think she's looking at around 40-45 for the car. We've only recently started looking, But we don't know anyone here that owns any impreza and I'm not taking a salesman's word for anything so just getting what info I can. :)

For mods I'm assuming she'll want to do pretty much the basics, which is probably just air flow/exhaust.

But it's not only the performance of the sti it's also the look of it, both inside and out. I really like the sti interior.

rexnet.com

anyone there will tell you an STI over a wrx.

but if it is never going to see a track, then all the alloy bits in the suspension and the brembos are probably a waste of money.

Why not get the WRP10.. kind of a middle point.

looks better than stock rex.

has more power and torque, costs less than the sti..

and has some good sti bits... tuning, sway bars etc..

http://www.mrtrally.com.au/performance/new...u_WR_WRP_10.htm

I have a couple of friends with WRXs and they all wished they bit the bullet and purchased the sti. Their main concern is the gearbox's in the wrx are considerably weaker than that of the sti. Cost 2k a pop and one of the weakest points in the car. getting the sti will save you in the long run aslong as it hasn't been thrashed to all tits.

have a squiz around some of the wrx forums around, the habibs should be able to offer you reasonable "fullysik" advice

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
    • Sorry, just assumed that talk of coloured pads meant EBC red/green/yellow/shit stuff. I don't know the DBA pads, but it's a reasonable bet that they will be OK. DBA make good stuff generally. Those 4000 series rotors I linked to are very good. I may well replace the RDA rotors I have with those when required.
    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
×
×
  • Create New...