Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Big dollars spent on car, no shortcuts or bullshit parts put on this car.

A true package for anyone chasing a lovely example of a heavy built gtr.

Only reason for selling is due to P plate restrictions, I didnt check with the RTA before going ahead with these big plans

94 model, last of its kind. Heres a short description of the car.

New Built Motor:

Built by Hunter Thomas from Newcastle

All new belts & gaskets has been just replaced

Motor been crack tested, shot peened and polished block and new welsh plugs.

Crank has been shot peened and nitrided, oil gallery plugs removed and grub screwed fitted.

Pistons are from specialised piston services.

Conrods have been lightened, shot peened and polished, fitted with Jun rod bolts.

All components have been fully balanced.

Fresh Respray:

full resprayed white under a year old

all colour coded white

side skirts

boot holes shaved off

Turbo setup & Fuel system all done by Sonny (Turbo-1 Fabrication), all brand new parts on this car, yet to be driven.

price $32k also includes full rego & tuning at your desire tuner*

call 0420730164 (Sam) for more details

serious enquiries only!

post-17317-1179121632_thumb.jpg

post-17317-1179121677_thumb.jpg

post-17317-1179121701_thumb.jpg

post-17317-1179121721_thumb.jpg

post-17317-1179121729_thumb.jpg

post-17317-1179121741_thumb.jpg

post-17317-1179386820_thumb.jpg

Edited by defect
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168615-syd-94-model-r32-skyline-gtrr/
Share on other sites

very nice car mate, if i was after a white gtr id buy it in a flash. hunter thomas are one of the best workshops around, Paul knows his stuff about building bulletproof engines, especially RB26s, his own gtr is a testament of his work. whoever buys this is getting a very good deal.

free bump

cheers

Linton

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

I'm in the market for a GTR, but given there is another white GTR in Newcastle for sale at the moment for $23K (that has had $14K on the engine), this must have some big dollar gear on it for an extra $9K.

Any gearbox work? Head Work? Diffs or brakes?

Maybe best you keep it... Paul does good work, good luck with the sale.

BTW, no details of the Turbo setup?

Edited by TwinTurboCelica

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...