Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Astra turbo is $36,990 retail for the coupe [obviously out of the price range].

an N/A R34 for $23k? I wouldnt like to see that, a half decent one will be out of your price range IMO too.

I think these 2 are good buys for the price "pug 206 GTI, Proton GTI" But if she is after a real *bang for buck* then a low vol import like a skyline or silvia really cant be beaten in the mid-size range.

Newsagents have buyers guides which would help decide on a locally made / delivered model car too.

An early model wrx is pretty good value and has 4 doors which a lot of women prefer [kids etc :spank:]...

Originally posted by predator666

that rex is good tho nark -- its in GC and pretty good for the price .. seen it once..

wasnt talkin about the rex :P

but i think i seen it at bennys not too long ago... the black wannabe carbon fibre look bonnet is a bit ricey.

a 92 model bmw 320 could be ok for that price.. insurance will be shit on any import.

proton satria gti and pug gti both good... the proton isnt sooo bad.. i had one until someone wrote it off.. a freind has one with 55,000kms on it and only serviced it twice and its still going strong.

are the BMW straight sixes really tunable??

i reckon WRX wagon's are cool... A bit of change to all the sedans around.

FTO sounds nice... but i have never driven any of the above mentioned cars except the BWM 320i (which was 94 i think) that was a beautiful car, torquey engine, strong brakes, real nice handling.

All well and good u driving these cars denham, but what did she think we she drove some of them? or u didn't let her? :)

320i - stock 110 kw I think... It's not too hard to get to about 140-150. If you want to go higher, supercharge or turbo-charge would be possible and give you up to 350+kw. :D

(Alternatively do what a friend of mine has done and dump a 4.0l NA v8 into one for 220rwkw. :D

Stock handling is fantastic, brakes are good, quality is good and you get to give Mrs INASNT a key with a BMW badge... :)

But then I'm biased...

Guest INASNT

bmw hey?

i some how dont see her in a bmw, i do myself in a M5 or 740 tho :D

SS8_Gohan

yes she did drive a few of the cars we looked at but she doesent ring their neck like i do in the test drive. The pug was the funniest, i did 7000rpm launches and 7000rpm changes while she did 2500rpm changes!! When u test drive a car u gotta give it a hrd time!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...