Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

worn out pads, glazed(shiny surface) discs and pads, oil/grease left on rotors after working on car heats up and eventually makes for noisey brakes.

The type of pads used, asbestos while dangerous, was the best friction material ever no clutch shudder no squeaking brakes or warped rotors so sad to see it go.

Cheers matt.

oh yeah dust build up from pads wearing can affect discs but mostly drum brake setups

Edited by mattymagoo22
worn out pads, glazed(shiny surface) discs and pads, oil/grease left on rotors after working on car heats up and eventually makes for noisey brakes.

The type of pads used, asbestos while dangerous, was the best friction material ever no clutch shudder no squeaking brakes or warped rotors so sad to see it go.

Cheers matt.

oh yeah dust build up from pads wearing can affect discs but mostly drum brake setups

How about I spray water on it? (is it advisable to spray water on the brakes and rotors while washing car?)

or how about degreaser?

Main cause of squealing brakes is the actual brake pad vibrating in the caliper. Pretty common for skyline brake caliper. Happens on my 32 GTR all the time, changed rotors and brake pads and brakes still squeal abit.

best thing I foudn was to get some disc brake quiet (red gooey stuff), take out the brake pads and apply it to the back of the pads, this keeps my brakes quiet for a couple thousand k's, i just reapply everytime i service the car and it keeps the brakes quiet, also its good to go back to a standard pad, the more aggressive ones, ultimates etc tend to squeal heaps more cos its basically metal rubbing metal.

but yeah, go to repco and get some disc brake quiet, costs like 8 bucks.

Man i must try this red gooey stuff.

Coz i got new rotors and pads on the rear (Rda rotors +endless pads) and they squeak like a mother F... lol

I got new stock nissan pads on the front, and they dont squeal at all..

Its so embrassing stoping at a light or slowing down.. Everyone just looks at you!!

Trust me its not just a little squeal..

But i guess you are right Dave32.. more agressive pads do squeal a shit loads.. should have just put standard pads in the rear, but i got these endless pads for free!!

Edited by siddr20

it really isnt hard, take the pads out, squeeze the gooey stuff on the back like toothpaste, then what i do is get the two brake pads and rub the backings of them together, to spread it nice and even on the back of the pads, let it dry a little and chuck the brake pads back in.

when it drys it turns into sorta like a silicon rubbery compound, what this does is absorb the vibrations from the pad in the caliper, dont apply it to ur rotors or the front of the pads as this just gets cleaned off the first time you brake.

i know what you mean by really loud squealing, used to happen to me aswell, just go back to a standard pad, you don't need anything more than that for street driving, if you track your car just keep a dedicated of spares for the track, you don't want aggressive pads for day to day driving, just chews through rotors quicker.

it really isnt hard, take the pads out, squeeze the gooey stuff on the back like toothpaste, then what i do is get the two brake pads and rub the backings of them together, to spread it nice and even on the back of the pads, let it dry a little and chuck the brake pads back in.

when it drys it turns into sorta like a silicon rubbery compound, what this does is absorb the vibrations from the pad in the caliper, dont apply it to ur rotors or the front of the pads as this just gets cleaned off the first time you brake.

i know what you mean by really loud squealing, used to happen to me aswell, just go back to a standard pad, you don't need anything more than that for street driving, if you track your car just keep a dedicated of spares for the track, you don't want aggressive pads for day to day driving, just chews through rotors quicker.

I put the Brake Disc Quiet on my noisy pads and it still hasn't helped. I have RB74's all round and unless I drive the car hard the pads and rotors seem to glaze over but even when the pads are hot they still make some noise. I have decided to go back to standard OEM pads because I also know how embarrassing it is to stop at the lights while screeching and having everybody stare at you. It really detracts from the pleasure of driving the car.

Would changing to slotted rotors solve my problem? I'm inclined to just change the pads but I would prefer to keep the pads if I can make them quiet.

I've had this problem for some time. First, with Endless SSYs and DBA 4000s the squealing was unbearable. We tried everything - chamfering, machining, goo, shims, Bendix Ultimates...

Anyhow, I had Bendix Heavy Duty put in recently and although better, they still squealed.

Eventually, someone worked out that the seals were worn in the calipers, and when the piston moved towards the rotor, the seal tried to roll with it and thus the piston wouldn't detract properly, leaving the pad contacting the rotor lightly = heat = glaze = squeak etc etc

Long story short, I had all my calipers rebuilt. Seal kits were about $100 each caliper and the same for labour. After this, it was dead silent. That was about a week ago and although I do get some minor, minor squeaks, its 1000 times improved. I'm just hoping it doesn't come back.

Just my 2c...

Edited by oblivo
I've had this problem for some time. First, with Endless SSYs and DBA 4000s the squealing was unbearable. We tried everything - chamfering, machining, goo, shims, Bendix Ultimates...

Anyhow, I had Bendix Heavy Duty put in recently and although better, they still squealed.

Eventually, someone worked out that the seals were worn in the calipers, and when the piston moved towards the rotor, the seal tried to roll with it and thus the piston wouldn't detract properly, leaving the pad contacting the rotor lightly = heat = glaze = squeak etc etc

Long story short, I had all my calipers rebuilt. Seal kits were about $100 each caliper and the same for labour. After this, it was dead silent. That was about a week ago and although I do get some minor, minor squeaks, its 1000 times improved. I'm just hoping it doesn't come back.

Just my 2c...

Thanks for the info. I will have the calipers checked out. Hopefully a rebuild is not necessary :D

You could be running out of brake pads and it's the metal tab warning you.

Pull the wheel off and have a look at them. Also have a look to see how much gap between the warning tab and the rotor there is.

Most likely, you could be wanting new brakes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...