Jump to content
SAU Community

Need Some Help - Power Fc Issue

N15MO R33
 Share

Recommended Posts

N15MO R33 Rookie

N15MO R33

Posted
Posted

All,

I recently got the power FC Installed on my R33 GTST. The problem i am having is "Check Engine Light" always stays on. Has anyone dealt with this issue before. Tried reading Apexi FAQ, not much help. Any suggestions would be appreciated..

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169584-need-some-help-power-fc-issue/
Share on other sites
evil_weevil Grand Master

evil_weevil

Posted
Posted

My "check-o-engine light-o" only came on when my knock levels were very high.

And that would be on a warm to hot day, high boost giving it a flogging! :thumbsup:

When it did, I just backed off, low boost and was all good.

Oh, flogging it was on the tracks, not the roads :D haha

N15MO R33 Rookie

N15MO R33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Engine Check light which always stayed on has been fixed, i didn't read the FAQ properly. My boost sensor was on eventhough i am not using the boost controller kit. On the FAQ it says the car should not start if its on without the kit but i was driving like that for last 2 weeks.

The worst part is, i took my car for a test drive today evening to check the level of knocking. It seems to be under 30 when i use 10.5 psi boost and revved to 6800rpm, but as i change it to 14psi and revved it to 6200 rpm i got 91 knock level.

could that be tuning issue?

thanks for your replies...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • V35_Paul
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By V35_Paul · Posted

      2 spots that my exhaust guy joined the 2 pipes together  Made a big difference. I'm now able to live with it. I can make it louder if I want by removing the HKS caps.
    • CefiroA31
      Ogura orc1000f vs Osg tr2cd vs Osg r3c experiences, max torque/max hp?

      By CefiroA31 · Posted

      Hi all, considering clutch upgrade to support 1130 engine hp from 1650cc injectors on e50 at 85% duty cycle (1650 x (11.85/14.7) x 85%). Narrows down to these three as they can be converted to use gm 26 spline input shaft if I ever want to use transmission with that input shaft (orc1000f and r3c easy/cheap just change center hub; tr2cd pricier must change clutch discs). Pricing orc1000f similar to tr2cd, r3c about usd 200 pricier. Orc1000f triple plate 200mm. Tr2cd twin plate 215mm. R3c triple plate 215mm. Claimed max torque : orc 1000f 723 lbs ft; tr2cd 800 lbs ft; r3c 1100 lbs ft. Why orc1000f triple plate but claims lower max torque vs tr2cd twins? Is orc1000f underrated? Any info maxing out these clutches? Info on street/traffic driveability/pedal feel? Thank you for any info on them.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Some troubleshooting, connect up a timing light/gun with a proper ignition lead on coil 1. Hold the revs at 4~4500rpm and see if your timing is all over the shop, scattering off its tits. If so, there's a high chance your CAS is fked. But I read you have a Link ECU ready to go in, why not just skip all this and put that in - will make troubleshooting so much easier.  
    • GTSBoy
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • uchoa
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
×
×
  • Create New...