Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've had a slight rattle coming from my speedo for some time now but lately it has been getting worse to the point where I need to do something about it. My car is a 93 R32 with a mechanical speedo so I'm pretty sure that it is coming from there and have taken the dash apart but can't notice anything wrong (tried insulating where the cable clips to the dash).

Does anyone know what could be causing this and know how to fix it? It's driving me crazy!

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169689-speedo-rattle/
Share on other sites

maybe check the speedo cable at the gearbox

if its gonna break thats usually where it goes

i had a bounce in my speedo at low speed (up to 40 ish) then not long after my speedo cable snapped (while at drags) at the gearbox joint

and the bloody thing costs $120 new from nissan ( damn my must have genuine parts thing)

although you may not find anything, your speedo cable or guage just might be ready to give up the ghost after 14 years

Hope that helps

RellikZephyr

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169689-speedo-rattle/#findComment-3135842
Share on other sites

It does have a very small bounce but that hasn't bothered me. Do they usually rattle before letting go?

I will have to check at the gearbox on the weekend otherwise it will be a process of replacing the cable and possibly the speedo.

Thanks guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169689-speedo-rattle/#findComment-3135881
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...