Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Keep searching Yahoo, thats where all the obscure stuff ends up at some stage or another. I know how hard it is to find Langley/Liberta Villa parts...

haha tell me about it! This is my collection of n13 gear that I'm yet to fit to the car or keeping as spares!

post-15385-1180349878_thumb.jpg

On the car I have a set of S2 langley tail lights, Factory option Langley Strut tower brace and Jap S2 Pulsar front bar.

Problem with these mats is that in all my searching on Yahoo, I've never seen them come up before other than this one time the other week and being quite an old car by Jap standards, I'm thinking my chances are very slim. I'm almost contemplating buying a car from Japan I know that has the mats just so i can have a set!

Edited by Mika
I'm almost contemplating buying a car from Japan I know that has the mats just so i can have a set!

I was going to suggest that before, but then thought how rediculous it would be to buy a whole car just for a set of car mats... but then again, if it were the right car (I've been looking for a Liberta Villa 1600 SSS sedan for over 5 years now and I live in Japan... does that give you an idea of the futility of it?) you could probably end all your parts collecting woes in one hit...

You've got some of the main parts that were unique to the Langley there though so you're halfway there. Just keep in mind that anything pre-1989 that was relitively obscure when new is getting almost impossible to find now.

Anyone seen any B12 Nissan Sunny 305Re Nismo Versions lately? :P

the car i had in mind is a Milano X1 seies one...280,000yen...bit steep for some car mats (which is the only thing i want from it!)

I could sell bits and pieces off it, but I'd still be left heavily out of pocket once it's shipped to me

I love the B12 Sunny ZX/RZ-1 What does this 305Re look like?

The B12 Sunny 305Re Nismo was a 3-door hatchback which had the doors like the RZ-1, but the front was squared off (like the sedan), then had the back section similar to an N12 Langley 3-door. It was painted all white with a body kit and even white wheel covers. Heres a link: http://www.nissan.co.jp/MUSEUM/SUNNY/6TH/main.html

Heres another rarity, the B12 Sunny Super Saloon Nismo:

P1.jpg

It was released in January 1989 in such limited numbers that some dont even know there was a CA16DE B12 Sunny, let alone a Nismo version... :/

  • 2 weeks later...
you buy the milano X1 and I'll buy the mats...

I can't find one at all... there literally nothing out there right now. Besides, owning something as old as an N13 in Japan would be a rolling liability, as the monthly parking fee/regitration/insurance cost would be worth more than the car...

I can't find one at all... there literally nothing out there right now. Besides, owning something as old as an N13 in Japan would be a rolling liability, as the monthly parking fee/regitration/insurance cost would be worth more than the car...

I'm assuming this is for sale.

http://item.rakuten.co.jp/sepia/10007458/

My japanese linguistic skills consist of oh so reliable google translations!

Lol I was just looking at that very page last night, but thought it was an info photo blog thing so didn't bother to scroll down! Hmmm, even though its within shaken I still think 280,000 yen is expensive :O I was expecting 100,000 yen or there abouts. Floor mats look good though!

  • 11 years later...
11 minutes ago, T.CREAN said:

Hi Mika, do you happen to have the rear Langley center panel? Would be very keen to from you.

Wow, surprised I remembered my password for here. Sold the garnish and most of the gear pictured at least 10 years ago. I have other stuff, but I’m keeping it all as it’s suoer hard to find any of it nowadays. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...