Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

In a recent rego inspection i was told of a couple of problems i have to fix. Most of them i have covered but there's a couple that have me stumped.

Firstly, engine mounts have to be changed. Car is an R32 GTS-T. Is this a hard job? Am i right in thinking the whole engine doesn't have to be copmletely removed?

Secondly, leaky sump gasket. Can this be done with engine and crossmember in place?

Also, as far as i'm aware there is no actual gasket, its a chemical sealant. Would Permatex Ultra Grey be the right stuff for the job?

Cheers guys

Simon

In a recent rego inspection i was told of a couple of problems i have to fix. Most of them i have covered but there's a couple that have me stumped.

Firstly, engine mounts have to be changed. Car is an R32 GTS-T. Is this a hard job? Am i right in thinking the whole engine doesn't have to be copmletely removed?

Secondly, leaky sump gasket. Can this be done with engine and crossmember in place?

Also, as far as i'm aware there is no actual gasket, its a chemical sealant. Would Permatex Ultra Grey be the right stuff for the job?

Cheers guys

Simon

Simon did they give you a reason why the engine mounts had to be changed eg: they were cracked???

To change them you will have to lift the motor up (shouldn't have to come right out) along with the box using a crane and change them over whilst its up.

You can get to the sup easy enough with the car on a hoist and x-member still in place or with it up on jack stands :D

GMB

They gave no reason why they need to be changed. I haven't had a look yet but if i can't see anything obviously wrong with them then i'll try and avoid changing them.

As for the sump... that's good news! :D Any tips for doing the gasket? I never had to do one with a sealant before... only ever used gaskets.

If the sump has been leaking, it's possible the engine mounts have been affected by the leaking oil.

I suspect you are going to have to lift the engine a bit so you can manoeuvre the sump around the oil pickup. If you've lifted it up (and disconnected the mounts), may as well replace them.

Probably the most important point is that the surfaces must be CLEAN. So lots of clean rags and gallons of metho. And a tonne of patience.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...