Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am very happy with the Wolf 3D plug-in myself. Do a search on both ecu's and you will find a wealth of information.

If you have a R32 why change you ecu, just get it rechipped? Even though i am very pleased with the wolf, it can never run as smoothly as the factory ecu. My problem was that R33 are not programmable.

i disagree that aftermarket ecu's can never run as smoothly as factory ones.

all you need is a good ecu, very competent tuner, and the money to keep going back for fine tuning.

afterall... factory ecu's are programmed by humans too... the only difference is that your average car manufacturer has a team of professionally educated boffins trained to tune their motors and the money to pay them.

if only your average joe was so lucky.

Well I think that aftermarket ECUs can run as well as stock ones, but if you go modding too much eventually idle and low rpm will suffer - not much you can do about it as things like bigger cams, injectors, penums optimised for higher rpm etc - it all adds up, which is something alot of people dont seem to realise when they head down the mod path.

I am quite sure someone will tell me about a beast of a car that totally disproves the above, but it is just what I have seen and experienced -

0.182c not including GST:)

OK, i felt this topic too open.

What i ment was that Millions of dollars are spent by the manufacturers to make an ecu run the engine and other parts, IN STANDARD FORM, really smoothly. This includes, cold, warm and hot start ups, fuel economy, a/c, and a whole lot of other shit.

I am very pleased with the running of my ecu and have no further problems, but with a R32 on can modify just the required areas/fields of the map to receive a VERY similar result.

Just my 2c

Alan

Guest drift_me_silly

it all comes down to application...for street, the factory chipped computer will always be the best value for money...and i hear what Turbo titts is saying; finetuning that takes place at teh factory has to take place at a workshop paid hourly by you to acheive the same or better results...the one and only thing that will always sway my mind back to the aftermarket is the resolution. -that also affects my choice of comp....but always, the resolution will be the defining factor of how thoroughly you CAN tune it. money money money......all that money....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Honestly don’t even think they stock them anymore. They are discontinued. 
    • Hi all,   anyone know where I can pick one of these up for a reasonable price? I just resprayed my rear trunk due to fuel stain and my new muse spat install.    added a photo for some content 🤣👍   thanks 
    • Consider a 35 too...
    • He's right ~ there is no 'magic' with stuff like this ... it is more likely that in the process of looking for the short, the loom/wire 'incidentally' got moved in the process, thus removing the short ~ now, that maybe a wire (in a loom) rubbing against the edge of some grounded metal, that's worn through the insulation, causing the (now intermittent) short to ground. If one wire in a loom has been damaged in this fashion, it's reasonable to presume that other wires beside it may have also be damaged, and now exposed...you can bet the green crusty copper corrosion will start... ...that'd be a pisser, Murphy's Law steps right in as GTS observes...but worse, something like that is easier to find when shorted...ie; unplug bulb and fuse, and put multimeter in continuity mode so you get constant beep, and carefully poke about hoping to find if some movemet of the harness stop the beeping.... ...it's still all a bit Arnie tho' ..It'll be back... 😃
×
×
  • Create New...