Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

I've just recently imported an R32 GTR from Japan that came with a Power FC. I am yet to take it to a local mechanic for a service/tune/what did i actually buy... but i have noticed that it has a knock/tap when at operating temperature

so: i turn it on, let it idle, sounds "fine" -however nowear near as nice as some of the other 32's i've heard getting around. drove into town to drop something off (aprox 25min drive) no boosting threw light Adelaide traffic occasional set of lights generally upshifting at 3,00rpm from 1st, 2nd then 3rd to 60kmph and then into 5th to cruise... so really light usage. Upon arrival i can hear a knocking/tapping, jump out and pop the bonnet and it's what i would consider to be distubingly loud. The source of the sound seems to be the engine/rocker area. appart from the Power FC, exhaust and suspension the car is stock, there has also been a CAT fitted for compliance, but unsure what (if anything) it replaced. I fill it with BP Ultimate (98 octaine) and it still has the compliance oil... some valvoline semi-sysnth 10-60 (soon to be replaced). true kms of the car are unknowen but we guess somewhere between 70-100k (have logs up to 58,000 + current reading is 9,000)

i am wondering, could this just be the Japanes tune? or is it something more serious? perhaps just timing belt? any help would be appreciated, and i know i should take it to a local/trusted mechanic, but i'd like a) learn as much as i can and b) know what im dealing with before throwing money at problems

just on a side note, the cabin heats up something feirce, is this a usual occurance?

Thanks for your time in advance!! =)

Edit: should have mentioned that it "feels" a bit down on power compared to when i first drove it, but that might just be me getting used to it =P and i'll also try to get a better location of the sound next time im driving it and it happens

Edited by Fishpaste~
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171898-possible-engine-problems/
Share on other sites

Got to have a bit more of a chance to look at the car today

attached is a picture of where the sound is coming from, its a distinct ticking that will increase/decrease with the revs of the engine, present from cold as well, gets louder as the engine gets warmer. May have lost a fraction more power compared to yesterday... somehow =( seems to be requiring more revs to keep crusing along at 60 in 5th than it was yesterday

after searching the boards last night i thought it could just be an oil problem, but now im not sure

any advice on what to check from here or if this is signs of a particular failure would be appreciated

thanks

Edited by Fishpaste~

Just some more information if anyone would be kind eough to help me out... pleaes?!?!

took a recording of the sound, the change in volume is me moving the mic about, so dont factor that in...

any help would be appreciated!! (its going to be a couple of weeks before i can take it to a garage - but not driving it atm)

Thanks in advance =)

its an 1994 V-Spec II, and supplier (friend of a friend) reported it drove well and made no sounds in Japan -im still waiting on any speeding fines :)

the loss of power mentioned the other night was me having the AC/Demisters on =P (/me slaps himself, soz) but it does seem slightly down on power compared to when i first got it (not a huge amount tho)

also, the cabin is like a toaster, heats up super quick without any assistance from AAC. is this normal for GTRs? other GTR owners able to confirm this?

Thanks

  • 2 weeks later...

I would change the oil first. see how that goes.

The heating in the cabin is most likely to be yourself freaking out and sweating!. i had the same problem when i first got my liner! I was paranoid something was wrong! Me being the new oil made the oil pessure gauge read lower than usual. learning this is normal after feeding her proper full synthetic oil.

goodluck :D

Firstly mate... whats the oil level like? Make sure its at the full mark on the dipstick.

Secondly, 10w60 oil is a bit too thick. Try a 10w40, or 5w40.. or something around thereabouts.

If you can, take another audio recording of the noise while revving the engine up and down between idle and around 3000rpm.

I think the reason it might feel 'down' on power is that its now running on aussie fuel, as opposed to japanese high octane.

Its possibly an injector noise, maybe again, something to do with the australian fuel? although i'm not quite sure how that'd affect the injectors directly.

Umm.. yeh, try changing the oil and if theres no improvement or change in sound then, i'd probably just ignore it for a while (providing the car seems to run ok, not rough). If its a mechanical problem, the noise will get louder over time, so just keep an eye on things and all should be good.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Had another look at the car and I noticed the fuel pump isn't priming on ignition. I'd taken out the pump from the boot to siphon out the old fuel, so maybe I've knocked something loose or broken a wire putting things back together. Will go back with a multimeter and try to work out what's stuffed. Kinda hoping it's the pump itself thats gone so I can upgrade it
    • Yeah agreed, you can't assume that shop are they only people who ever had to work on it. It was just a guess on the mods based on how things were done back then. You can check the Air Flow Meters by the part number on their tags, they are likely either Z32 or Nismo ones (both read about the same but the Z32 one is a little larger while nismo is stock size but supports the higher airflow like a Z32). And yes, all that would get you to 450hp / 340kw To tell what is happening with the turbos, you want a photo of the tag on the core, that will say what it was made out of  (they can retain the front and rear covers to make the plumbing easier)  
    • I'm selling my personal race car. 1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R About eight years ago the engine developed the dreaded low oil pressure problem. I removed it and found the issue. However shortly after I moved half way across the country, moved my work shop, bought a house, got married, then moved my shop again to it's permanent location for the time being. in turn I do not have the time to race this car as it should be. In turn the engine I built for this car will end up in my street car and this car I hope finds a home with someone who can use it to it's full potential. The roll bar was built by Jason Noren Fabricaiton in Pomona California to SCCA and NASA Specs. The car used to compete in redline time attack and global time attack enthusiast class. It also has a fire suppression system.  The car is with me at my workshop in Kyle Texas, USA. Shipping it is no problem, I can personally deliver the car to the port of either Houston or Los Angeles. Any other port depending on where it is may require transport but we can always work that out.   The chassis itself is rust free, rear quarters and under fenders are free of any rust so it's a very solid foundation for anyone who wishes to move forward with it. As posted and at the asking price of $20,000 USD the car includes all of the following;   All OEM Body panels, front fenders, rear bumpers etc.  OEM Nissan Projector headlamps (Pictured N1 lamps were removed) OEM Nismo Side Skirts / Extensions OEM Rear Spats  Front & Rear Subframes are installed car is full roller Rear Subframe has Cusco Camber Arms, Whiteline HICAS Elimination Front Subframe has Whiteline tension rods and whiteline Sway bars w/ endlinks.  Buddy Club N1 Coilovers All chassis wiring and engine wiring is in tact. Attessa System is fully in tact and was functional before engine removal.  BCNR33 GT-R Brembo Brakes F+R with Endless MX72 Plus Pads, DBA Rotors & Stainless Steel Brake lines Billion Racing Radiator Billion Radiator Hoses Fluidyne Engine Oil Cooler Accusump System (trunk Mounted) 5 Speed Transmission w/ Transfer Case F+R Prop-shafts Rear Differential With rear Axles.  Nismo Gauge Cluster Nismo Clutch + Flywheel   Essentially what is needed to make this car running and driving again is as follows: A working Engine, an ECU, and time to put it together. The price posted is or best offer as I am willing to remove some components to accommodate price to a certain extent. If any serious buyer wants full detailed pictures, videos, or any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I believe this car is priced to move quickly considering it's a rust free and very straight chassis but always open to fair negotiation.  I can be contacted via phone or email. (+19517081648) email is [email protected]   
    • So...to my (and my mechanics doing the swap) surprise...the oil pan from NEO engine does not fit 100% and needs to by modified like this: It is not a huge problem but in the future i want a "proper" oil pan. So question is...what different oil pan can i get to fit without any problems and modification? Thanks! 
    • Some more info I found.  These are the last entries Yoshikiyo Fujii made on his blog before he passed away in 2009: http://blog.livedoor.jp/fujii_dynamics/ And finally this is where the workshop was situated:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/HhTPtHzt3WVcBTiEA  
×
×
  • Create New...