Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

read the treads on this and none seem to be recent so wondering if anyone has had a hit or miss wit aftermarket ecu,s. asking because im going to get mine done in a few months. was thinking on trying apexi power fc for ease of tuning but i know that the auto is gona be an issue. any help would be appreciated. oh im also trying to stick to a budget of 2 k . ohh i have a series 1 by the way

Edited by jippa
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172072-aftermarket-piggyback-ecu-for-auto/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Would the Greddy E-Manage work? I know they work with auto R33's, might be an option?

always creates a bit of discussion....million dollar question....i asked aaron[sliding performance] about e manage and he assured me it works with auto ........ trouble is i dont think i asked how well it worked.

ps you'd think this issue would've been cleared up ages ago.

well if u want to keep the auto i would be going for somehing like motec m48 if u can get it secondhand due to the fact that u can keep ur standard ecu for the shift logic for the auto, and the motec runs up to 8 injectors sequentially and has a heap of good fuctions, or try the autronic sm2 which u can keep the factory ecu u as well.

i have a stagea and im going to go with one of them very soon

hey fly.. so how much did those 2 set ya back. was talking 2 a guy at c red about the apexi power fc and there is another stag that is going to try it out.. he is confident he can get it to work....so will wait and see if it does work. got some good info of him saying that the stag tune on stock ecu is the worst tuned of any of the skylines. it was meant to be a car for snow driving ( basically taking the family to the snow) he also told me the shift points on the auto are not the best

Here is an SITC for sale on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-MINT-AP...sspagenameZWD2V

They are rare so if you want one get in quick cause its not often they are up for sale

i suppose what u are going for the sitc ans safc will be ok for basic tuning but if u want to go for some good tunning and get thge most out of ur engine then go motec or autronic.

but i have heard the sitc ans sfc work pretty good

ask Tangles he has the SITC and SAFC 2 tuned in his car at the moment, all i know is that as a tuning combo they work very very well, SK also has a similar type setup he has the SITC with the Jaycar DFA.

Like many of us have said if you are after huge power there is no point even buying a Stagea.

The question you need to ask yourself is how much power are you after? The SAFC and SITC combo can quite easily tune well over 200 4 wheel kw, it just all depends on if you have the supporting mods to get there

that is my goal , around 190kw at the wheels . mods are hybrid fmic, apexi pod. splitfire coils. full 3 inch zorst turbo back and runing 14 pound of boost. also have a shift kit in the auto for better shifts. i know with those mods she will be hitting r&r and with some ecus you can get built in boost settings (2) stock and 12 pound= no boost controller. speed and boost cut are also there

I would vote Emanage ultimate so long as you have a tuner that can tune it. It allows for a lot of control.

I have SAFC2 and SITC and have 186rwkw, exhaust, fmic, boost controller and a few other bits and bobs.

The apexi combo is tricky to get tuned just right because you have to work around R&R. I would recommend an upgrade to fuel pump and/or a z32 AFM as well to aide in tuning.

The Z32 allows for more air to be tuned to flow through, fuel pump go for something like the bosch 040.

A good tuner for the e-manage would be harder to come by than a good tuner for the Apexi equipment.

Gorgasm: i dont mean to be rude but im surprised that your only making 186rwkw with your mods, cause im make 162 at all 4 without a tune. And i know for a fact that having the SAFC alone makes a big difference in power.

Jippa: i personally think that for the power you are trying to acheive your best bet would be to stick with something you know people have tried and tested without having to many problems. I really think you will find a lot of problems well maybe not problems as such but difficulties in trying to get the PowerFC to function correctly with the auto

the emanage ultimate has the abillity to work with the factory kit, it has the auto shift ignition retard as a feature. Certainly a far better option to the S-afc and the ITC, they are horribly blunt tools to tune with by comparison. It will come down to the person you get to tune it. My 2c is learn as much as you can about tuning whatever you get yourself, it saves you money. I am looking at the emanage ultimate myself.

the emanage ultimate has the abillity to work with the factory kit, it has the auto shift ignition retard as a feature. Certainly a far better option to the S-afc and the ITC, they are horribly blunt tools to tune with by comparison. It will come down to the person you get to tune it. My 2c is learn as much as you can about tuning whatever you get yourself, it saves you money. I am looking at the emanage ultimate myself.

Can you please explain further on this??? Your own experience??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey keep the ideas coming, I'm always keen on projects! But, problem fixed!  I got a cheapie ozito scope from Bunnings and had a good look in and around the bearing and sensor hole. I couldn't see a smoking gun but the bearing looked a bit strange, especially when comparing with a new one. I thought the cover had come off the bearing magnets.  Sorry for pics of a screen, I didn't have an SD card.     Good thing I had the old one to inspect. So, given I'm like a pit crew with wheel bearings and luckily I had a spare bearing because I f**ked up my parts order, I decided to just smash it out. Got the old one out in about an hour. So much easier when the parts haven't had a chance to rust together yet. 😂 And, well, found the problem.    In the second pic at about the 8 o'clock position, you'll see what I think is the tip of the old sensor.  The new sensor has definitely been rubbing but it's all intact, just a little shiny so I'm hoping it's fine.  The car brakes perfectly now and no errors.  I think the job took about 2.5h in the end. 👍🏻 I really appreciate the help in here as usual. Thanks guys.
    • I was only looking because I saw some drops on the ground but it wasn't alot. Recently had it serviced will ask the mech to confirm. Find it strange that it looks standard though, can see in another photo of a random box 
    • So...not sure if you know if that has always been there or why you went looking. It could be old damage from a clutch explosion, or even just the gearbox got dropped somewhere along the line. Basically, you should seal it up to stop oil and dust getting into the bellhousing, but it doesn't matter too much and is not structural. I'd suggest something like a glob of JB Weld. BTW what gearbox oil are you running, I would guess the breather has been spewing it everywhere.
    • Hey Duncan thanks for your reply. Sorry mate I know the photos are shit.  Took another photo for reference. Seems the casing does have a hole in it looking on the net, fluid seeping out. Added a photo   
    • Very hard to make out what you mean, is it the squarish hole with redline shockproof (probably) under it? Is that pic from on top of the engine with the firewall to the left of pic and engine to the right? Either way, spray the area liberally with degreaser and try again, maybe circle the part you are worried about
×
×
  • Create New...