Jump to content
SAU Community

Endless Cc-x Break In...

moobaque
 Share

Recommended Posts

moobaque Rising Star

moobaque

Posted
Posted

Hi All,

Firstly appologies if this gets posted twice but either my nets up the shit or something funky is goin on with the sau site.

Anyhoo, a few days ago I installed Endless CC-x pads all round along with a brake fluid bleed replaced with Motul RBF600.

obviously im still in my bed in period but the intense squeeling coming from the rears is discusting. Under heavy braking they are relatively silent (which is good as they are bought for track day reasons). But with the less intense preasure used on the street the squeel is huge.. and appears to be getting worse.

Whats happened on my drive home tonight is that the brakes squeel from the touch of the pedal till stop, but now when im at about 15kmph or less a much deeper vibrating, almost grinding sound seems to start to sneak in.

is this just what happens at bed in with these pads or is something a bit funky going on?

I would love to get this sorted asap as its almost making the car undrivable, and a threat to my life from angry people near me.

(oh and i have done a search but returned nothing that came near my issue)

Cheers

Camden

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172207-endless-cc-x-break-in/
Share on other sites
Russman Grand Master

Russman

Posted
Posted

Hey mate. FYI my ccx rears don't squeel much anymore but they are a pretty aggressive pad and will squeel a bit. My front do all the time. ccx's might be a bit track oriented if you wanted street (quiet) pads.

There shouldn't be any grinding when bedding in though.. I'd be checking installation. Did you do it yourself? Check the clips and rods that hold the pads in place.

HKS-R33 Experienced

HKS-R33

Posted
Posted

ive got the same pads and after a while of light braking mine start to squeel really bad and i sometimes get the humming type of sound that you are describing. This only happens to my front brakes though. Ive been told that slotted rotors should fix the problem as it gets rid of all the brake dust.

I would also like to know a fix to this if anyone has one.

BTW my pads are definately installed correctly.

Mike.

moobaque Rising Star

moobaque

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Hey mate. FYI my ccx rears don't squeel much anymore but they are a pretty aggressive pad and will squeel a bit. My front do all the time. ccx's might be a bit track oriented if you wanted street (quiet) pads.

I did buy them for track purposes but if im able to leave them in the car between meets it would be an advantage.. My fronts dont squeal at all even under light braking.. just the rears..

There shouldn't be any grinding when bedding in though.. I'd be checking installation. Did you do it yourself? Check the clips and rods that hold the pads in place.

I did do the install myself, but im pretty confident its all AOK.. I'll check em out this arvo to make sure.

moobaque Rising Star

moobaque

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Checked the rear pad fitment and everything is fine... so doesnt appear anything in the installation is causing the noise

how much $$$ are the endless cc-x pads to buy.

i cant find my receipt but i think all 4 corners cost me $500.. possibly $600.

Depending on what calipers you have you will be able to get them cheaper off the net. I think nengun sell em for about $411, but you'll have to wait a while for them to arrive.

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

Did you use anti-squeal shims with either grease or that brake silencing goo? If not, then the installation is probably the problem. The Nissan shim kit comes with some grease to use with the shims, but i just used the red CBC brake squeal goo (should be able to get it any spare parts shop) to 'glue' the caliper pistons to one of the shims, and the rear of the pad to the other shim. There was a little grease left between the shims. No squealing at all :)

moobaque Rising Star

moobaque

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Did you use anti-squeal shims with either grease or that brake silencing goo? If not, then the installation is probably the problem. The Nissan shim kit comes with some grease to use with the shims, but i just used the red CBC brake squeal goo (should be able to get it any spare parts shop) to 'glue' the caliper pistons to one of the shims, and the rear of the pad to the other shim. There was a little grease left between the shims. No squealing at all :)

I certainly have shims in place but i will investigate some brake grease/glue, thanks. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • PranK
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By PranK · Posted

      Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Chupapy
      New r33 owner

      By Chupapy · Posted

      Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...