Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

wtb this bar

S2 260RS front bar ie: The Autech front bar

pic0014vh7.th.jpg

don't care the price need this bar

need to know where to get it

don't care if it's form over seas prefer in australia if anyone knows who can make it or where to get it any info is appriciated

also chasing series 2, raditor support, bonnet, right gaurd, all lights pictured, air con condenser, radiator, cooler kit, an under bar rio and both air bag modules or covers. any info on whereabouts on any of these items will be appciated

iam EGA41t. now!

thanks

Edited by petrolfix
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172650-wtb-this-bar/
Share on other sites

Only real chance of getting the the front bar is a copy of Yahoo auctions

Approx $200 plus $350-450 to get it here from Japan and wait 8-10 weeks

If you want a Ms factory front bar I have one $200 will need repairs and painting

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172650-wtb-this-bar/#findComment-3177759
Share on other sites

Only real chance of getting the the front bar is a copy of Yahoo auctions

Approx $200 plus $350-450 to get it here from Japan and wait 8-10 weeks

If you want a Ms factory front bar I have one $200 will need repairs and painting

Also Brycey will be stripping his front soon!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172650-wtb-this-bar/#findComment-3177760
Share on other sites

see this is where I am confused.. our cars supposed to be an autech version but it comes with this front bar..

which is slightly different than the front bar you

even that bottom one ( which I presume is a stock 260rs ) looks different

I shouldnt really comment as our cars not even here and I know 5/8ths of eff all abotu the stageas.. could that front bar be something else? or is there a diff between s1 and s2?

th_002.jpg

1.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172650-wtb-this-bar/#findComment-3180840
Share on other sites

see this is where I am confused.. our cars supposed to be an autech version but it comes with this front bar..

which is slightly different than the front bar you

even that bottom one ( which I presume is a stock 260rs ) looks different

I shouldnt really comment as our cars not even here and I know 5/8ths of eff all abotu the stageas.. could that front bar be something else? or is there a diff between s1 and s2?

th_002.jpg

1.jpg

ssshonkey

your right the 260 rs bar is diffrent

thanks for the pointers and pics

Edited by petrolfix
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172650-wtb-this-bar/#findComment-3180939
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

wtb this bar

S2 260RS front bar ie: The Autech front bar

pic0014vh7.th.jpg

don't care the price need this bar

need to know where to get it

don't care if it's form over seas prefer in australia if anyone knows who can make it or where to get it any info is appriciated

also chasing series 2, raditor support, bonnet, right gaurd, all lights pictured, air con condenser, radiator, cooler kit, an under bar rio and both air bag modules or covers. any info on whereabouts on any of these items will be appciated

iam EGA41t. now!

thanks sems like i found a front bar and some airbags :/ still need th rest of the items though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172650-wtb-this-bar/#findComment-3200988
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...