Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

May be interested if you can give me setails on the manifld and wasteate setup you ran... Plans for an RB20 so you will have to convince me that it is a good proposition!

Some pics etc might help you sell it to me, if you include the manifold (assuming it needs a custom one) then i will be very interested!

that was sposed to be wastegate, not wasteate, 'g' button is flogged out on my keyboard, also want to know about the a/r and the compressor size, the most boos the turbo ran, whether there is any play in the shaft, whether there are signs of the blades 'feeling' the comp cover etc...

The turbo is about 15000km old. It has not been boosted past 14psi. It is a straight bolt on, standard manifold. It was an internal wastegate

There is no play in the shafts at all, its still fairly new.

I dont have any pics of it, however i will get the specs.

Im pretty sure its a T3 with T4 wheels

The turbo made approx 170 rwkw on 14psi on my RB20

Originally posted by DISZ-IT

i have a turbo rated at 550 hp for sale.

brand new.

KKK K27

never been used, im only asking 800. i been trying to sell it for awhile so if ur intrested call me.

0422 23 11 55

matty,

im located in melbourne

What he fails to mention is that this is a truck desel turbo, with a compressor turbine smaller than a std R33 turbo and an exhaust A/R rating of about 1.0+.

STOP wasting peoples time and state all facts!!

You sounded surprised when i told you, but i figured that you got ripped and now you are trying to load it off.

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by Al

What he fails to mention is that this is a truck desel turbo, with a compressor turbine smaller than a std R33 turbo and an exhaust A/R rating of about 1.0+.

STOP wasting peoples time and state all facts!!

You sounded surprised when i told you, but i figured that you got ripped and now you are trying to load it off.

haha and he wonder y he hasent sold the turbo.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...