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Hi, I have an 85 R30 Skyline Hatch with an FJ20et engine conversion. Just had a few questions which I'd appreciate some input on.

1) I'm looking at upgrading the diff to an LSD item (it has the stock r180 diff at the moment), and am currently looking at a DR30 rear assembly (diff/brakes/halfshafts). I wanted to check how difficult it is to install this item in the r30 hatch (searched and couldn't really find too much on the question) or whether it all bolts up pretty easily? (The rear also has koni shocks and will have slightly lower king springs soon).

Do the brake lines/handbrake cables match up easily? (And if the dr30 rear has a better handbrake system that'd be great - current one sucks).

What type of LSD is the standard DR30 item?

2) As mentioned the front brakes have been converted to the DR30 274mm rotors and calipers. However it's running the (I believe) standard R30 braking master cylinder and booster (has 7/8 on the side). I'd want to upgrade them to the dr30 items (I've read it vastly improves pedal feel-true?). Of the 15/16 or 1" master cylinder which is the better to get? And what of the brake booster, that was a bigger item for the dr30?

I wanted to also confirm the 15/16 master cylinder is equal to a 280zx.

3) The vehicle is fitted with a sunroof which has an occasional annoying leak, mainly when stationary in rain for a few minutes. Is there a place to get replacement rubbers or an easy fix for the seals?

And of course, if anyone has a dr30 rear end with lsd, an appropriate master cylinder/booster or a bunch of sunroof rubber/seals for sale or sitting unused I would be interested in a purchase.

Cheers

Details on the car (if you're curious - irrelevant to above)

Skyline R30 Hatch

FJ20et engine & gearbox

Front Mount Intercooler

Unifilter Pod Filter

3" exhaust

Front Bilsteins, rear Konis (stock springs - soon to be replaced with 1" lowered King Springs)

Turbosmart dual stage boost controller (13psi high boost)

DR30 front brakes, standard R30 rear, running some sort of 4x4 pad

Standard wheels with alright tyres

190rwhp @ 13psi

Eastern Creek: 2:16.6400 (As above, but without boost controller, 170rwhp)

Get some pics up man!

sounds like a weapon!

The handbrake setup can be modified to have more 'bite' when you pull the lever, but its best left to a rally workshop, basically it involves lengthening the small lever the cable is attatched to at each caliper. and tightening the cable or replacing with a thicker heavy duty cable setup that doesnt flex.

check the thread "CRACK...showoff blows up drivetrain"

good info on diffs in there.

im getting a spare R180 and welding it so i have a locker, but its only goin gin when im at the drags or 'busy' weekends...

check the size of R32 Mrake baster cylinder, they go on with little problems.

also what width are your rear tyres??? and where are you located!

http://members.optushome.com.au/hunterdevo...20r30/13-11-06/ some pictures there.

dyno-190hp.JPG

Dyno curve.

I've actually bought a z31 and nisssan 300c brake master cylinder which should be the bigger type so I'll have a go with those.

The rear tyres are 205 on the stock rims, they definately have traction issues if I try and accelerate quickly from a stop. I'm in Sydney, around Ryde.

68255798.nrHdhYFv._MG_8084.JPG

Get some pics up man!

sounds like a weapon!

The handbrake setup can be modified to have more 'bite' when you pull the lever, but its best left to a rally workshop, basically it involves lengthening the small lever the cable is attatched to at each caliper. and tightening the cable or replacing with a thicker heavy duty cable setup that doesnt flex.

check the thread "CRACK...showoff blows up drivetrain"

good info on diffs in there.

im getting a spare R180 and welding it so i have a locker, but its only goin gin when im at the drags or 'busy' weekends...

check the size of R32 Mrake baster cylinder, they go on with little problems.

also what width are your rear tyres??? and where are you located!

i dont know if you have looked into it but if you didnt want to throw in an r200 diff and keep the r180, the wrx sti's

use r180 lsd's. they look EXACTLY the same. Normal wrx's come with r160's.

I found it quite interesting when i came across it..

1) I'm looking at upgrading the diff to an LSD item (it has the stock r180 diff at the moment), and am currently looking at a DR30 rear assembly (diff/brakes/halfshafts). I wanted to check how difficult it is to install this item in the r30 hatch (searched and couldn't really find too much on the question) or whether it all bolts up pretty easily? (The rear also has koni shocks and will have slightly lower king springs soon).

Do the brake lines/handbrake cables match up easily? (And if the dr30 rear has a better handbrake system that'd be great - current one sucks).

What type of LSD is the standard DR30 item?

The DR30 rear end will bolt straight in. No mods necessary. Not that there is anything really different between the Oz R30 and the DR - the trailing arms are the same, as is the rear crossmember. The differences are: R200 differential (and halfshafts. Companion flanges are the same though.), moustache bar, rear calipers, and rear discs.

Oh, while you are pulling it all apart, do this mod - it makes a world of difference.

The handbrake mechanism is the same.

The DR30 R200 diff is a plate-type LSD (8 plates, IIRC). Ratio is 3.9:1.

2) As mentioned the front brakes have been converted to the DR30 274mm rotors and calipers. However it's running the (I believe) standard R30 braking master cylinder and booster (has 7/8 on the side). I'd want to upgrade them to the dr30 items (I've read it vastly improves pedal feel-true?). Of the 15/16 or 1" master cylinder which is the better to get? And what of the brake booster, that was a bigger item for the dr30?

I wanted to also confirm the 15/16 master cylinder is equal to a 280zx.

Yes, the DR/HR30 came with a bigger MC. There was a 15/16" and a 1" as well. They are hard to come by, and you can't find them in catalogues. They were bigger due to the larger piston sizes of both the front and rear calipers. Yes, pedal feel is improved - the pedal isn't as "long". I *think* the booster was bigger, but only slightly. If people are looking for the DR calipers, look no further than the Z31 300ZX. They are the same. Pads are available from your local AutoProBarn.

The 280ZX MC is a 15/16" item. They are bloody expensive if you buy it new, though. Oh, and the problem is that the MC bleeder nipples are on the wrong side (read: they are hard up on the strut tower). When I upgraded the master cylinder on my DR30, I used a Nissan Patrol 1" MC. I can't give too much of a comment on that MC as I ended up changing my booster to the small 180B booster, and putting a Nissan Urvan MC in.

3) The vehicle is fitted with a sunroof which has an occasional annoying leak, mainly when stationary in rain for a few minutes. Is there a place to get replacement rubbers or an easy fix for the seals?

I would call a sunroof fitting place about sourcing a new seal. Either them, or someone like Clark Rubber.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Matt

Disk and drum IRS R30 rear ends are different , different angles used betwen the cross member and the semi trailing arms . Must use a complete set or the toe/camber angles get all screwed up . The rear diff mount for an R200 is different too , the crownwheel being larger in diametre dictates that the rear cover must extend out further and the mount bolts (studs and nuts from memory) onto the rear of this cover . There are minor differences to how the outer cables mount to the DR30s rear calipers as well . Also different calipers , longer legs on the fixed portion and larger diametre pistons in the floating section .

I have a set of DR30 rear brakes if needed .

Cheers , Adrian .

Thanks for the responses. Discopotato03 the R30 hatch had disc brakes as standard rather than drums, so hopefully it'll be closer than the drum setup would be. Thanks for the offer on the rear brakes as well, I'm currently looking at the options.

How difficult is changing the mount from r180 to r200 anyway?

One other thing, the indicators sometimes have a tendency to just go on - not blink, what would be the part I'd need to replace to resolve the issue?

Edited by HunterDevourer

A late Intercooled type FJ20ET engine with 500cc injectors , a set of DR30 Inlet manifolds - early and late because plenum volume changed for the small or .48 A/R turbo intercooled version , set of S12 turbo manifolds , set of DR30 front struts and brakes , set of 4 16x7 4 stud wheels , std early turbo computer loom AFM + late intercooled ECU (+ injector dropping resistor and idle/EGR pulse solenoids) , pair of S12 engine mount brackets , Koyo R32 GTR radiator , uncommon 60 deg thermostat housing , FJ20ET box modded with RB20DET internals (needs baulk rings) , 3 button Foramic sprung centre clutch , R200 LSD - been opened and has a full set of plates , preload is ~ 60lbs , 1001 nuts/bolts/washers .

Also JDM Z18 Turbo Bluebird cross member (and power rack pump/lines) modded to suit FJ20ET . Also a set of DR30 elec cooling fans .

I'd rather have the space so any reasonable offers accepted . This was all the legacy of 10 years of building a S1 TRX Bluebird that had the complete late DR30RS drive line grafted in .

Cheers all , Adrian .

PS No R200 halfshafts , Big D got those and the A arms though I have one spare . Also may have a DR30 R200 rear diff mount bar , have to look .

Whereabouts are you discpotato? Like I said in the first post, looking into r200 lsds so...what kind of figures for your one (what ratio as well?), and the dr30 rear brakes and rear mount bar...

That'd mean I'd just need halfshafts and moustache bar for an r200 fitted.

I'll PM you as well.

Should have some pics up over the weekend , cave getting a clean out .

Cheers A .

Cool, I sent you a couple PMs, don't know if they went through. Let me know. Is the diff mount the same thing as the moustache bar?

Edited by HunterDevourer
A late Intercooled type FJ20ET engine with 500cc injectors , a set of DR30 Inlet manifolds - early and late because plenum volume changed for the small or .48 A/R turbo intercooled version , set of S12 turbo manifolds , set of DR30 front struts and brakes , set of 4 16x7 4 stud wheels , std early turbo computer loom AFM + late intercooled ECU (+ injector dropping resistor and idle/EGR pulse solenoids) , pair of S12 engine mount brackets , Koyo R32 GTR radiator , uncommon 60 deg thermostat housing , FJ20ET box modded with RB20DET internals (needs baulk rings) , 3 button Foramic sprung centre clutch , R200 LSD - been opened and has a full set of plates , preload is ~ 60lbs , 1001 nuts/bolts/washers .

Also JDM Z18 Turbo Bluebird cross member (and power rack pump/lines) modded to suit FJ20ET . Also a set of DR30 elec cooling fans .

I'd rather have the space so any reasonable offers accepted . This was all the legacy of 10 years of building a S1 TRX Bluebird that had the complete late DR30RS drive line grafted in .

Cheers all , Adrian .

PS No R200 halfshafts , Big D got those and the A arms though I have one spare . Also may have a DR30 R200 rear diff mount bar , have to look .

SHITE!!!

sounds liek a racing team garage!

unfortunately not much of it will be of any use to me as im going L24et.....

i saw a S1 TRX in vic a while back... had a similar setup to yours sounds like...

theres a HEAP of FJ20 lovers on OZDAT classifieds & the forum (i suggest chucking that post up on there)

Also a late DR30RS IC type ECU and a loom/AFM/Dropping resistor/airbox/EGR + idle pulse solenoids . Std castor/radius rods .

Custom and wrapped turbo exhaust manifold with T25/28 flange , fabricated by AJ or the now closed Road & Rally Centre . I used it with a Garrett GT28RS (AKA GT2860RS) but I'm not sure if I want to part with the turbo itself . There's a 3" bend painted black with a reasonly large new K&N tapered air filter . Have dump pipe made to suit RB20/25 turbo on Gazell FJ exhaust manifold in a Bluebird , have VERY rare factory Gazell T3 turbo dump pipe .

Also original Bluebird Z18ET Brake Booster inverted for FJ20 install . Has a Nabco 7/8 MC but the smart cookies can use a 1" Liberty master . Also genuine I think Nabco Gazell Clutch master Cylinder .

Also Rare Bluebird Z18ET Triple S (SSS) Grill and SSS emblem .

Also original Jap EFI Bluebird fuel tank and lift out swirlpot .

So far engine and box spoken for , R200 LSD probably , DR rear brakes maybe .

Big D scored the DR30 rear X member/halfshafts/A arms . Have one spare DR30 A arm .

I'm unearthing all sorts of gold I'd forgotten I had , thats the problem with being a bower bird .

Cheers A .

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