Jump to content
SAU Community

Front Mount/blow Off Valve Question

Jamie88

By Jamie88,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Jamie88 Community Regular

Jamie88

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey all, getting a front mount kit for my r33 and after some advice/knowledge. The pipe my bov is currently on shown in picture is going to be replaced. The other pic shows the kit I am getting, or similar so where is the best place to now put my bov? Would it be better to leave the standard one connected (metal plate blocks the bottom where it joins the intake to stop it functioning) and just get a new adaptor welded to the new pipe if so should I completely disconnect the stock bov or is the plate sufficient enough. Or should just get an adaptor to suit standard position. My main concern is what do I do with the vaccum lines left over if I move the bov and disconnect stock one. I will have the plumback pipe sitting there for the stock bov and the line that connects the the blitz one left doing nothing. I dont know where they should be going if I move the bov, as it was already the way it is when I got the car. If you can get ya head around what I just said help me out please. I tried to describe it as best as I can. Thanks

If you can help me out add me to msn. [email protected]

post-38045-1182154480_thumb.jpg

post-38045-1182154528_thumb.jpg

Edited by Jamie88
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173262-front-mountblow-off-valve-question/
Share on other sites
blinko Proficient

blinko

Posted
Posted (edited)

yeh where it is now is prob the best place and the only pipe that should be left free if u have a atmos BOV is the plumb back pipe and that just simply has to be covered up... use a grommet or sumthing...

Edited by blinko
Jamie88 Community Regular

Jamie88

Posted
  • Author
Posted
yeh where it is now is prob the best place and the only pipe that should be left free if u have a atmos BOV is the plumb back pipe and that just simply has to be covered up... use a grommet or sumthing...

Yeah but what im saying is when I get my front mount, the pipe its on now will be replaced should I get it put back on that new pipe. Or put it in the standard position where the standard bov still remains? If I put it on the new cooler pipe should I leave the standard blow off valve the way it is? It has a metal plate between it and the inlet pipe.

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

unless there is more piping for your fmic kit that what is show, you won't be replacing the pipe where the bov is. the pipe from the turbo to the stock intercooler will still be used, as will the pipe with the bov on it. the 3 bits of pipe shown go from where the stock intercooler sits to the fmic, and then the other 2 go from the fmic to the side fire wall and the next from the side firewall to the pipe with the bov on it.

as for the bov, just get an adapter. the best plave to have a bov fitted is as close to the throttle body as possible. it keeps the air flowing in the one direction.

moonus Experienced

moonus

Posted
Posted
unless there is more piping for your fmic kit that what is show, you won't be replacing the pipe where the bov is. the pipe from the turbo to the stock intercooler will still be used, as will the pipe with the bov on it. the 3 bits of pipe shown go from where the stock intercooler sits to the fmic, and then the other 2 go from the fmic to the side fire wall and the next from the side firewall to the pipe with the bov on it.

as for the bov, just get an adapter. the best plave to have a bov fitted is as close to the throttle body as possible. it keeps the air flowing in the one direction.

what he said, u wont need to replace the pipe that the BOV is connected to ;)

Jamie88 Community Regular

Jamie88

Posted
  • Author
Posted
unless there is more piping for your fmic kit that what is show, you won't be replacing the pipe where the bov is. the pipe from the turbo to the stock intercooler will still be used, as will the pipe with the bov on it. the 3 bits of pipe shown go from where the stock intercooler sits to the fmic, and then the other 2 go from the fmic to the side fire wall and the next from the side firewall to the pipe with the bov on it.

as for the bov, just get an adapter. the best plave to have a bov fitted is as close to the throttle body as possible. it keeps the air flowing in the one direction.

The pipe in the top of the front mount kit shown is the pipe that replaces the one my bov is on, and joins to the pipe off the throttle body. Correct me if Im wrong but pretty sure thats right. All the kits, ive seen, cheap ones included join there, run across the fan shroud area and down the side that currently has no pipes (right hand side of car). Which then joins onto one on the right hand side of cooler and the left hand side pipe joins to standard pipe which then runs to turbo??? Can anyone confirm this.?

moonus Experienced

moonus

Posted
Posted
The pipe in the top of the front mount kit shown is the pipe that replaces the one my bov is on, and joins to the pipe off the throttle body. Correct me if Im wrong but pretty sure thats right. All the kits, ive seen, cheap ones included join there, run across the fan shroud area and down the side that currently has no pipes (right hand side of car). Which then joins onto one on the right hand side of cooler and the left hand side pipe joins to standard pipe which then runs to turbo??? Can anyone confirm this.?

no you dont replace that bit.

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted
The pipe in the top of the front mount kit shown is the pipe that replaces the one my bov is on, and joins to the pipe off the throttle body. Correct me if Im wrong but pretty sure thats right. All the kits, ive seen, cheap ones included join there, run across the fan shroud area and down the side that currently has no pipes (right hand side of car). Which then joins onto one on the right hand side of cooler and the left hand side pipe joins to standard pipe which then runs to turbo??? Can anyone confirm this.?

i'm assuming that you are talking about the pipe with the bracket on it? that bracket bolts to the drivers side of the motor near the injector rail. it runs from under the radiator hose on the drivers side to the start of the pipe with the bov on it. the pipe on the left of the cooler in the pic you posted runds from the drivers side of the cooler, through the holoe you have to cut in the side firewall, to the start of the pipe i just mentioned. the pipe on the right of the cooler runs from the where the stock cooler sits (so it joins the stock pipe that comes from the turbo) to the passenger side of the fmic.

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted
The pipe in the top of the front mount kit shown is the pipe that replaces the one my bov is on, and joins to the pipe off the throttle body.

i think he is a bit confused as to what goes where.

either way, just get an adapter and mount the blitz bov on the stock bov's location.

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted (edited)
i think he is a bit confused as to what goes where.

either way, just get an adapter and mount the blitz bov on the stock bov's location.

I think you are confused.. he is talking about the COLD pipe coming from the stock cooler, it has his Blitz BOV attached to it. THIS pipe will be replaced by the piping in the kit, he is asking if he should try put his Blitz BOV in the same spot that it currently is or put it on the crossover pipe where the stock BOV sits.

I've seen adaptors for RB20/25's are my local Malz (our version of Autobarn), bolts in the stock location and has a 90deg bend in it. My R2D2 was actually mounted inside the front right guard.. well out of the way of prying police eyes :action-smiley-069:

Edited by bubba

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waders360
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Waders360 · Posted

      Sorry. Front brake calipers
    • MBS206
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • DraftySquash
      Looking for someone with a R34 front bar

      By DraftySquash · Posted

      Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
×
×
  • Create New...