Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have r33 4 door.. with a rb25det.. atm 3" turbo back exhaust, front mount, pod and electronic boost cont to 9psi..

big question.... what mods now to give me more POWER...

what ecu would you guys recommend??

what suspension and brake setups are good..

mostly street and a bit of drag

im looking for about 200rwkw

6k to spent

point me in the right direction

;):)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173757-help-me-spend-some-money/
Share on other sites

pfc (1400+... very rare now a days) or emanage ultimate (~$900), and a tune ($500ish). that will get you 200kw.

the standard turbo will be at its limits at 200kw and may very well need upgrading.

upgrading the turbo will mean another 1k-1.7k on a hiflow (if you choose to go into that direction).

but if you get a hiflow you might as well take full advantage of it with: afm (z32 $300) and injectors (555cc off slide: $600ish) and get around 240kw easily.

personally im going in the:

slide hiflow: approx: $950

emanage ultimate: $900 ish

z32 afm: $300

standard injectors (maybe 555cc - undecided): $0

tune: $400-$500

thats around $2650 or $3200 with injectors.

$2800 will get you a nice set bilstein shocks, springs, sway bars etc with still a bit to spare.. thats if you're doing all the labour yourself. if not, that amount will be significantly less.

yeh security, nice mods on the budget.

should be the goods.

i have personally installed and driven an rb20 with the kkr480 turbo form ottomotto in sydney.

had pfc,550cc injectors, z32, turbo back exhaust, front mount, cam gears, catch can, running 16psi and it pulled 254rwkw out of an unopened rb20. next will be cams, should see 280rwkw.

as for suspension and brake upgrades, gtr brakes would be a cheap but highly effective upgrade.

suspension wise, nice set of bilsteins or coilovers would be nice, fat sway bars and sturt braces front an rear would help it handle alot better being a 4door. personally i would go coiloivers, with height and damper adjustments, so you can raise the height for drag and soften it up, let your pressures down to 20psi give or take 5psi so your launch is taken by the car and wont bounce/wheelspin.

my mate has spent $5900 so far, and i helped him install it. ran 12.6 with a slipping clutch.

next he is to upgrade his clutch, do the cams, hopefully touch the high 11's.

turbo is a little laggy though, so the cams should help this and a re-tune.

best of luck with your mods mate. look forward to seeing your results.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...