Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

the setup i'm thinking of cosists of two standard horn style relays (as in pins 85 & 86 on coil side, pins 87a 87 and 30 on the high current side), wired together to operate a door solinoid both ways.. tired and just for the life of me cannot remember how to do it, any help appreciated :rolleyes:

cheers,

marcus

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/174040-door-solenoid-relay-wiring/
Share on other sites

Soo... 87a is the circuit for naturally closed, and 87 is naturally open.

You've got a single pole, double throw relay right? SPDT

So when the coil is activated, 87 will join the circuit. When the coil is off, 87a will join a different circuit. I'm not sure what exactly you're doing, or how you can join two of them together though...

A double pole, double throw will let you join one circuit while turning another one off, and then vice-versa.

As far as how to "do it", i'm not sure what you're exactly doing. =-[

hey,

yeah that's it, voltage over 85 & 86 joins 30 & 87, if there is no voltage over 85 & 86 then 30 & 87 are always connected..

basically the 200ma that my alarm supplies to work the door solinoid forward and backwards is not enough current to work it. there are only two wires coming out of the alarm to connect to the solinoid which i think is a pretty standard setup, to work the solinoid one way it suplies a current over these wires, and to work it the other way it inverts that current..

what i'm trying to do is wire in a relay so the solinoids have enough power open and close the door lock.. my problem is that by using a relay the solinoid will only work in one direction, as the relay kills the alarms ability to operate it in the other direction as the change in polarity won't go through the relay.. i think..

i remember seeing a way in a previouse alarm install done by somebody else where they had two relay's wired together to perform this task.. this is what i'm after :( any help would be great :)

cheers

do this:

87 -+12v

87a - GND

30 - motor

85 -+12

86 - alarm

do both relays the same way and stick a 20A fuse on the supply.

what car btw. there may be a MUCH easier way of doing it :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi GTSBoy, Excuse my ignorance but what does a "Bad" Knee point mean ? 
    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
×
×
  • Create New...