Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

howdie all,

looking into purchasing a Stainless 3" catback or turboback exhaust depending on price,

Have been looking at;

HKS Cat Back - $900

Trust PE 2 Cat Back - $900

JJR Turboback - $900

X-FORCE Turbo Back - $1000

these prices are a rough estimate of what i have seen around...

any help on what to go for and where to get it would be much appreciated.

thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/174553-r33-gtst-stainless-exhausts/
Share on other sites

Do a youtube search of all the brands your after so you can get an idea of what they sound like..

You can buy through traders here on the forums here for pretty cheap..

You can by through the internet through other traders..

Or go to your local performance stores..

You pretty much named all of them..

Except Apexi and that's all I can think of now..

howdie all,

looking into purchasing a Stainless 3" catback or turboback exhaust depending on price,

Have been looking at;

HKS Cat Back - $900

Trust PE 2 Cat Back - $900

JJR Turboback - $900

X-FORCE Turbo Back - $1000

these prices are a rough estimate of what i have seen around...

any help on what to go for and where to get it would be much appreciated.

thanks.

HKS Cat Back - Well I haven't read much about these, but it can't be bad. Good quality. It's just a cat back.

Trust PE 2 Cat Back - Good quality exhaust and not loud. Its just a cat back.

JJR Turboback - You also get with this package, A split dump/front pipe and a High Flow Cat. It will be on the load sound as it doesn't have any resonators. Good performance for the price because of the dump/front pipe and high flow cat. Good quality.

X-FORCE Turbo Back - You also get with this package, A bell mouth dump/front pipe and a High Flow Cat. It will be quieter than the JJR but should be louder than the PE2. It has a resonator so it will be nice to the ears and the dB meter. Good performance for the price because of the dump/front pipe and High flow cat. Good quality.

Note: Changing the dump/front pipe will net you the biggest performance gain.

My Pick: Either the JJR or the X-Force. You get more for your $.

If I was to buy again: JJR split dump/front pipe with High Flow Cat with the X-force Cat-Back = Performance without being too loud.

Extra Note: If buying the X-Force and you don't want it too loud, make sure it has the oval resonator. I believe they came 2 different types. One was oval and the other was a hotdog (louder).

Edited by KeyMaker

I have the X-Force Strainless Steel turbback on my car, its loud at WOT but ive had cops stand behind it and listen to it and they didn't seem to think it was illegally loud. As suggested, youtube the particular systems and see what sound you like best. If you want I can take a recording of the Xforce if you want

Ive got the JJR turbo back exhaust. Love it.

Good price and goes hard. Its also not that loud, innitially you will think it is, but after a couple of weeks, youll get used to it.

Its also not loud at all on the freeway, only in smaller revs.

Also the JJR has a split dump pipe when the x-force has bell shaped one... the JJR split dump pipe gives you better power and response.

awesome, probably thinking the JJR or a Cat back PE2 with a dump pipe from somewhere else?

might pay to find someone in SA and ask them to take me for a ride so i can get an idea of the in cabin noise! cheers guys!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
    • Yeah, I would have said the same. It makes me suggest that there are other things wrong, such that the ECU is totally unhappy with the broken sensor. The only other thought here is that maybe it is shorted, which might cause a different issue to the typical "disconnected" sensor.
×
×
  • Create New...