Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im proud of my blue and white badges!!!!!!!!!!

That's it.... I really have a lot of respect for people that are proud of their rides the way it was built - for what it is .... for e.g. , I drive a R33 GTS-Turbo - I have mates they have put GT-R badges on trying to be GT-R's .... silly!!! I love my car for what it is... a Skyline is a Skyline... e.g. if your ride is NA - it's a super nice NA car... a Skyline all the same.... no need to put a GT-Turbo badges if it's not a turbo... however, if you bought it this way then that's a different story...

But, if someone sees it and says... is it turbo - you say no, then they ask why do you have Red & White GT badges... this just makes you look silly... just my 2 cents.

  • Replies 200
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

That's it.... I really have a lot of respect for people that are proud of their rides the way it was built - for what it is .... for e.g. , I drive a R33 GTS-Turbo - I have mates they have put GT-R badges on trying to be GT-R's .... silly!!! I love my car for what it is... a Skyline is a Skyline... e.g. if your ride is NA - it's a super nice NA car... a Skyline all the same.... no need to put a GT-Turbo badges if it's not a turbo... however, if you bought it this way then that's a different story...

But, if someone sees it and says... is it turbo - you say no, then they ask why do you have Red & White GT badges... this just makes you look silly... just my 2 cents.

respect is earnt, not given. you need to get your facts straight; there is no designation for red/white and blue/white badges for r33s.

r33 turbo models have red/white shields only.

r33 non-turbo (non type-s) have blue/white shields.

r33 non-turbo (type-s) have red/white sheilds.

some r32s have plain metal sheilds ones, some with red/white sheilds

not entirely sure on the r34s, there's so many variants ranging from GT-X, GT-4, GT-T, GT-25, etc.

i was under the impression that red/white meant turbo and blue/white meant n/a, well at least thats what every skyline i have seen to date has.

And for the record my R34 GT-four has blue/white gt badge :D

Well when i first gought my gts skyline with it was kitted and had the red/white shields on it, so i not really sure, but from what i know i thought red/white was turbo n blue/white was N/A however, i have seen a few different cars which prove this theroy wrong, does anybody know for sure??

My Front cut is in quarintine, and i should be recieving a call either today or tomorrow to organise the car to go in!

Hame

  • 2 weeks later...

Okay mechanic has said there "was a delay in customs, so it won't take too much longer"

Ahh i wanted the car ready to take to powercruise 10 but meh, we'll see...hame

yeaha i know it been off the road over 2 months now, i am being as patient as possible, i'm dirving around the g/s's cousins little auto exel atm and its really startin to hurt me! lol (no offence to exel drivers) but i can't stand driving it around all the time although i appreciate having a run about for a month, just can't wait to get the skyline back n running!

Well when i first gought my gts skyline with it was kitted and had the red/white shields on it, so i not really sure, but from what i know i thought red/white was turbo n blue/white was N/A however, i have seen a few different cars which prove this theroy wrong, does anybody know for sure??

My Front cut is in quarintine, and i should be recieving a call either today or tomorrow to organise the car to go in!

Hame

i'd say that when the person put the kit on your car they might of changed the badges aswell??

my bros gts has red/white but thats only there because a day before he was meant to pick the car from the dealer someone stole his badges haha, so the dealer replaced them with turbo items...

Just thought i would add my 2 cents on this.... my R33 GTS25 has red/white badges and no it's not because some tryhard put them on there, it's the way it came outa the factory, that guy further up the page who said about the type s= red/white and non type s=blue and white is onto it. i was trying to find out what the type s thing ment but then read earlier pages and the answer was there which seems to be true to my car so....

Edited by Gza36

Have fun cutting away at your Tommy Kaira front bar to fit the FMIC in :)

and modifing the indicator mounting bracket (and cut away and plastic weld some of the back of the indicator that is not seen in my case)

good luck.

Edited by FighterJoe
Have fun cutting away at your Tommy Kaira front bar to fit the FMIC in :spank:

and modifing the indicator mounting bracket (and cut away and plastic weld some of the back of the indicator that is not seen in my case)

good luck.

Yeah it'll be a bit of a job to get it in, but will look great once in and should be a tight fit i think! Have you seen many FMIC in the same front bar as i have? if anyone has any pics it would be good if you can post them:

UPDATE: tried contacting mechanic on 7th sept he wanted it in on the w/e to start, contacted sat n sun but hopefully today

(monday 10th it'll be going in) Hame :(

Ok guys, just got off the phone to the mechanic and all seems to be going ahead, he wants the car down there first thing tomorrow morning, so i have called around a few towing companies to find a guy in shailer park, price is $70? is that good, anyhow i really happy all is going ahead so car should be on the truck at 9:30am so the adventure is just about to begin. Will be seeing th front cut tomorro.

Hame :(

respect is earnt, not given. you need to get your facts straight; there is no designation for red/white and blue/white badges for r33s.

r33 turbo models have red/white shields only.

r33 non-turbo (non type-s) have blue/white shields.

r33 non-turbo (type-s) have red/white sheilds.

some r32s have plain metal sheilds ones, some with red/white sheilds

not entirely sure on the r34s, there's so many variants ranging from GT-X, GT-4, GT-T, GT-25, etc.

i seen a nissan pulsar cruising around my area with red and white skyline shields on, now that is wrong! :(

p.s. love the colour, would love to paint mine the new VE commodore purple

Yeah it'll be a bit of a job to get it in, but will look great once in and should be a tight fit i think! Have you seen many FMIC in the same front bar as i have? if anyone has any pics it would be good if you can post them:

With modification it fits fine, I can post a couple pics of my car when I get time (same front but fitted with a FMIC).

Ok guys, just got off the phone to the mechanic and all seems to be going ahead, he wants the car down there first thing tomorrow morning, so i have called around a few towing companies to find a guy in shailer park, price is $70? is that good, anyhow i really happy all is going ahead so car should be on the truck at 9:30am so the adventure is just about to begin. Will be seeing th front cut tomorro.

Hame :)

nice... who's doing the work for you? (PM if you don't want to name the workshop)

$70? depends on the distance travelled of course!

Fighter JOE - yes please i'd love to see some pics of the fmic fitted into the front bar, see how mine may look.

Pal - yeaha i know someone who is painting a r33 the new VE pueple let me know if you want to see pics when it is all done! should look a treat!

Eug - i won't name the workshop just yet without permission, and as for the towing i was quoted 170, 160, 110, 75 (but that was for wednesday) n i want it done today rang one more guy who said 70 9:30am today so he should be here in 20 minz. (pm sent)

Hame!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...