Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes, you guys heard correctly. I know that everyone says r33 ecus are impossible to remap, but I have two of them right here.

I have for sale 2 remapped r33 ecus. As i'm sure you're all aware, when you up the boost on the stock ecu, timing is retarded severly, and the mixtures go really rich.

Both of the remapped ecus eliminate rich and retard. Ignition timing is advanced quite significantly throughout the rev range too, so they should make more power, more torque, be more responsive and have faster turbo spool.

I bought both of these ecus off the forums here, but I have had a change of plan for my car. They are both from famous japanese tuning companies. The ecus suit r33 rb25, with stock afm and stock injectors. Works to optimise the stock turbo, or aftermarket turbo (up to the power level that the stock injectors and afm support). Runs perfectly on 98 octane petrol (yes, they have been tested with a wideband air fuel ratio meter).

Price: 500 each TO YOUR DOOR via express post .

Contact: PM or call me on 0403 211 482 (Chris)

Edit: forgot to say, speed limiter has also been removed (of course :thumbsup: )

Edited by MANWHORE
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/174728-r33-remapped-ecus/
Share on other sites

lol... turbo tune on south road do a complete standard r33 ecu remap for $500. Everything you can tune a powerfc to do, they can do to the standard ecu. That price includes everything from A-Z in tuning a skyline.

Hey dude.. where are you located?

Also where did you get these from?

Am i able to test it before i purchase it?

Is it suitable for stock side mount? and then later suited for a fmic if i ever get one? or even a 34 side mount?

Currently just got full exhuast, pod, and little tad more boost..

Got any graph figures?

This ecu suited for a Series 2 manual?

If i do get this ecu, can a tuner be able to check it on dyno? and maybe even tune it a bit?

Or is the ROM untune able?

Got any pics?

Also if i sell this ecu, can i just put standard ecu back in without any problems?

cheers

edit: also how lean and rich is this ecu? if that makes sense?

Edited by siddr20

Hi sid

I'll try and answer all of your questions.

I'm located in st ives

The ecus are from japanese tuning companies (but works with 98 octane petrol fine)

of course you're able to test it first. I would prefer that you did - that way, we're all happy. I'm not here to sell stuff that isn't suited to people's car.

It most definitely is suited to the stock, fmic or 34 sidemount. Refer to my post above. Once you increase airflow to a certain level, car will go rich and retard. the map on my ecu doesn't do this. Even with the stock sidemount, it'll make more power, torque etc, because it has more timing everywhere

dyno graph is useless, because power is dependant on mods. I don't believe in dynos. I don't care about power figures. I much rather road testing with a wideband o2 sensor. Knock can be monitored by monitoring knock sensor voltage on a laptop

sII manual - haven't tested it on an sII manual. Worked perfectly on an sI manual.

You're most welcome to test it on a dyno. The ecu has a chip socket in it now, so if a tuner knows how to remap it again, sure, he can burn a chip and put it in.

You sure can - unplug it and plug the other one back in

yep. one was sold to me.

it seems like its normal from around idle - 3k rpm then its all smiles from then on. i felt a difference straight away.

and the fact that it can be re-tuned via a new chip (i didnt know that) is even better.

thanks mate. will keep you posted on my 1/4 times.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
×
×
  • Create New...