Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

I couldn't find the dayco belt here in Canada, so what I've done was gone ahead and purchsed the Gates GT2 powergrip belt,

1200 mm long, 30 mm wide, 8 mm depth.

After wrapping the belt around the crank drive gear, I noticed that it gets about 1/3 around the gear, and some of the belt teeth begin to buckle against the gear teeth.

I know it wasn't guaranteed, but this is a damn sturdy belt, and I would like to use it cause it looks like it can survive an airstrike. they're made for 11 - 20,000 rpm machinery, so that should be worth noting.

however, it doesn't seem to wrap around perfectly. And i think i would have to cut it down to around 27 mm for it to fit properly too.

does anyone have any experience with this belt?

Thanks, appreciate the views/replies, if any.

Raff

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175105-gates-powergrip-gt2-belt-for-rb30/
Share on other sites

IMO messing around with belts too much is troublesome, there are different tooth profiles. Plenty of people have been running standard belts with big cams/valve springs for a long time without dramas. All i do is change it every 50,000 for peace of mind. If the belt isnt right for the application, narrowing it could cause it to fray and break

IMO messing around with belts too much is troublesome, there are different tooth profiles. Plenty of people have been running standard belts with big cams/valve springs for a long time without dramas. All i do is change it every 50,000 for peace of mind. If the belt isnt right for the application, narrowing it could cause it to fray and break

well i'd assume that a professional belt replacement or cutting outfit would have the proper tool to slice the belt cleanly so that it looks as it came from factory that way.

but some people are saying the gates fits, and i tried wrapping my SOHC dayco belt over the gear drive, and it goes, but the gates doesnt :dry:

i think it's cause the teeth are rounded, rather than trapezoidal.

so i guess cubes won't be able to revise the RB30 guide, considering no one has owned up and posted pictures of their successful belt install with the gates 1200 8mgt 30 cut down to size.

it seems as though no one has tried this belt, and no some will be mislead (however, cubes is definately not reponsible, as i read his disclaimer, and bought the belt based on my own decision)

anyone know anymore about htis thing?

could you show me this link rb30 guide that your refferring to... ?

new website, looks slick (props, Cubes) :D

EDIT:

In light of this question, I'd like to help out any confused users, myself, and cubes as well, in refining his guide to the best that we can in regards to what works and what doesnt. I think it will greatly clear up any confusion and narrow down the belt choices. Comparing the dayco to the gt2, the gt2 seems to be way stronger, which might mislead people as to whether it should be used (this is where I sit, im trying to figure out if it's worth it)

I've attached a pic of the section in the guide that shows the belt and the two tensioners. HOWEVER, the belt itself cannot wrap that far around the crank drive gear from what I've tried, whereas the stock SOHC Dayco belt that came with my RB30 does, infact, loop all the way around to the point where I'm 2 teeth short of completing a full 360 wrap around the drive gear.

Someone told me that if i put the tensioners on and slide the belt over at the end of everything, it should work fine.

I'm having trouble believing that with the belt and gear in hand.

Is it at all possible that the RB26 gear is somewhat different, and should I use that instead?

post-29116-1183521019_thumb.jpg

Edited by Cubes
new website, looks slick (props, Cubes) :(

EDIT:

In light of this question, I'd like to help out any confused users, myself, and cubes as well, in refining his guide to the best that we can in regards to what works and what doesnt. I think it will greatly clear up any confusion and narrow down the belt choices. Comparing the dayco to the gt2, the gt2 seems to be way stronger, which might mislead people as to whether it should be used (this is where I sit, im trying to figure out if it's worth it)

I've attached a pic of the section in the guide that shows the belt and the two tensioners. HOWEVER, the belt itself cannot wrap that far around the crank drive gear from what I've tried, whereas the stock SOHC Dayco belt that came with my RB30 does, infact, loop all the way around to the point where I'm 2 teeth short of completing a full 360 wrap around the drive gear.

Someone told me that if i put the tensioners on and slide the belt over at the end of everything, it should work fine.

I'm having trouble believing that with the belt and gear in hand.

Is it at all possible that the RB26 gear is somewhat different, and should I use that instead?

anyone?

If the belt is too stron/thick to wrap around the crank pulley like the stock one, i wouldnt be using it. Sounds like oits being used outside its design boundaries and could likely fatigue. Unfortunately it may last just long enough until its first drive. Going by your other thread, id hate to see its first 8500rpm be a messy one, and bust those nice custom pistons.

If the belt is too stron/thick to wrap around the crank pulley like the stock one, i wouldnt be using it. Sounds like oits being used outside its design boundaries and could likely fatigue. Unfortunately it may last just long enough until its first drive. Going by your other thread, id hate to see its first 8500rpm be a messy one, and bust those nice custom pistons.

You strike a good point, Adriano.

I'll look into the Dayco Belt.

Infact, I'll call dayco head office to find out where I can get this belt from.

Are there any other stronger belts than the Dayco? I dunno, dayco belts look so cheap and weak.

try the Gates belt part number t866 its a multi-use belt so it doesnt have the timing marks but its the right size and is off the shelf at most parts stores

and is this belt stronger than the dayco, or better made?

and is it for use with the dual lower tensioners?

try the Gates belt part number t866 its a multi-use belt so it doesnt have the timing marks but its the right size and is off the shelf at most parts stores

there seems to be no gates t866 belt, anywhere. not even on their website.

however, i found the gates t306 belt, and the T167R belt.

the t306 is 150 teeth and for audi and vw engines

the t167r is 153 teeth and is for mitsubishi engines

hmmmmmmm

New data:

Gates T291 is for Audi 1.8 cylinder turbo (AEB) engines

it has a 8mm pitch and is 1216mm long and 25mm wide.

Gates T306 is also for audi engines

it has 8mm pitch and is 1200mm long and 23mm wide.

I think I'll be going with the T291, if I can find a replacement made by Goodyear with the Gatorback style belt material.

New data:

Gates T291 is for Audi 1.8 cylinder turbo (AEB) engines

it has a 8mm pitch and is 1216mm long and 25mm wide.

Gates T306 is also for audi engines

it has 8mm pitch and is 1200mm long and 23mm wide.

I think I'll be going with the T291, if I can find a replacement made by Goodyear with the Gatorback style belt material.

Found that the Gates T291 is cross-referenced as the following belts:

Dayco 94680 - same specs as the 94407

Goodyear Gatorback 400291 - same specs on goodyear page.

I'll be buying whichever I can get my hands on tomorrow, most likely the gatorback, then the gates, then the dayco as final shot.

I think they use Modified Curvilinear rather than trapezoidal shaped teeth, but MC teeth are pretty darn close to Trap teeth anyways, so I don't think it will be a problem.

We'll see. =)

New data:

Gates T291 is for Audi 1.8 cylinder turbo (AEB) engines

it has a 8mm pitch and is 1216mm long and 25mm wide.

Gates T306 is also for audi engines

it has 8mm pitch and is 1200mm long and 23mm wide.

I think I'll be going with the T291, if I can find a replacement made by Goodyear with the Gatorback style belt material.

Update:

The Bosch BT866 mentioned in the RB30 guide seems to be correct.

It is cross referenced as an AEB 1.8 Audi Quattro belt, with the same teeth and pitch as the T291, Gatorback, and Dayco that I've mentioned.

Therefore, If they work when I buy it tomorrow (not running the engine yet, though), I will message cubes and ask him to append the Timing Belt portion of his PDF.

hi everyone. Update.

Got the Gates T291. Seems to be the same belt as dayco 94407. Will check it when I get home. :rofl:

Couldn't get the gatorback belt, but I think it will be ok compared to the Dayco belt that was used on the SOHC that came with my engine.

definately not as thick as the PowerGrip GT2, but I guess I'll have to roll with it. The belt still looks damn sturdy.

Found it for 70 bucks at one place (with dealer discount), and 56 bucks with taxes inc. at a place near my work, so the gentleman who works there had ordered it for me. :worship:

Tooth pitch and tooth profile looks to be right. Maybe a bit curvilinear, but somewhat trapezoidal as well. I don't think it's going to be a problem. It's also 25mm on spot, so I think we got the right one here.

Alternatively, one could use the T306, but I'm going to go ahead and get my machinist to drill and tap the top hole.

New question: where do I get a tensioner stud, or should I just go to a bolt manufacturer and get a new bolt that is the same as the one that's already on the block?

Thanks for the replies guys. We're makin' progress here :)

SUCCESS

Belt Guide:

Upper Tensioner Relocation Method.

Required Belt Length: 1216 mm

Required Belt Width: 25 mm

Required Tooth Pitch: 8mm

Required Tooth Profile: Trapezoidal (prefered) or Modified Curvilinear

Required Number of Teeth: 152

Compatible Belts:

Gates T291

Goodyear Gatorback 40291

Bosch BT866

Dayco 94680

Dayco 94407

Continental Contitech CT919 (OEM volkswagen belt supplier)

Factory Position - Dual Lower Tensioner Method.

Required Belt Length: 1200 mm

Required Belt Width: 23 to 25 mm

Required Tooth Pitch: 8mm

Required Tooth Profile: Trapezoidal (prefered) or Modified Curvilinear

Required Number of Teeth: 150

Compatible Belts:

Gates T306

Goodyear Gatorback 40306

Bosch BT306

Dayco 94777

Continental Contitech CT909 (OEM volkswagen belt supplier)

Gates PowerGrip GT2 1200-8MGT-30, cut down to 25mm from 30mm at factory (still pending)

This is a list of belts that i've compiled through comparing my new T291 belt to the stock SOHC dayco replacement belt for the RB30E. It fit exactly the same around the crank sprocket, so I did some sleuthing and cross referencing, and this is a list of belts that SHOULD be compatible.

When I say SHOULD, I mean that someone mentioned the GT2 to be compatible, and it was not. These belts are in comparison to the level of compatibility shown by the GT2. Even if you've got a GT2 on your DE conversion, it most likely does not fit as well as these ones listed above do.

Edited by Careless

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For fuelling the Haltechs have O2WB fuel controllers. Very useful for helping tuning VE and correcting for *small* mistakes. Of course if your injector/cam/trigger/sensor data is just wrong (or for a GTT which is not a GT) then you will get impossible reactions to things. I am sure you know this already but the reason people don't typically put haltechs (or any Aftermarket ECU) on GT's is because there's practically no real gains to be had - So this knowledge won't be commonplace.
    • Can someone tell me if the cracks seen in the rear sway bar bushings in these photo's is unacceptable from a roadworthy point of view?  
    • Shouldn't need a "base map" for anything other than guidance to ignition tuning. You just need the engine capacity right, the injector size right, and something, almost anything, for a VE map. On an NA engine, fuelling is almost completely a function of load signal & rpm. It should run and drive with a completely flat fuel map. It will be too lean under load, but that's easily fixed. We used to tune all ECUs without any base map. There were no such things (until someone had tuned a near stock engine on one, and then they had a "base map".
    • What did you actually buy/how much did it cost? When I got mine in like.. 2017...? 2019? the aim was to run Torque for gauges via ODB2 and things like Track Addict/Laptimers/Dashcam/Reversecam/Spotify etc. Mine never broke, but I wonder if you've got the same needs (it sounds like it). Cause I liked the idea of being able to do anything with it. That said, yours also cost 3x the cost of what I spent so... food for thought.  
    • For me there is a massive difference in manufacturer or big brand crippled android (Sony, Kenwood etc) vs the sort of thing I've installed here, which is basically just a tablet in DIN form factor with open Android, and the other model of course is mirroring - Android Auto/Carplay. I hate the locked down manufacturer and AA options where they decide what apps I'm allowed to install, including the Launcher but also importantly things like Ecutek (for this car) or Real Dash (Stagea) are not supported. Plus those crippled versions tend to be slower due to both overheads and lower spec hardware. On the other hand, when this breaks I'll likely be in trouble for support....but how is that different to owning an Infiniti anyway
×
×
  • Create New...