Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

My remote in the battery died and after i replaced it i realised that my central locking does not work with the alarm....

its abit of a pain locking the doors then engaging the alarm... :)

anyone know of anything that may have caused it?or any solutions?

fuses etc that my have blown????

any help will be great

thanks! >_<

Edited by lighty01

I bought the alarm with the car... R33 S2 GTST

not sure who installed it..

well, my central locking works fine if i use the key or push the button with my hand but it does not engage when i press the alarm button.

i cant think of any more detail to give you.

Just got the same problem myself, I've got a Viper alarm. It used to work, then just all of a sudden stops. When I press the lock button on the remote, I can hear the lock motor trying to engage but it doesn't give enough to lock. If I press the lock manually or use the key however, it will. Any ideas?

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It doesn't look like there's a lot of options out there these days, and what's out there is performance oriented aftermarket stuff (with the GTR markup) I wonder if there are other cars with similar springs, after all its just a matter of length, diameter and stiffness. Alternatively, I did see coil spacers. Probably not the best option, but could be serviceable too.  
    • Final thought for now. Obviously the reason I was in there was to check everything is OK cooling wise, pull out the radiator to flush it etc, but I have to say the factory has done a hell of a lot of thinking about air management in a way they never did back in the R chassis days. The Redsport/400rs have (from engine forward) 2 large shrouded fans - radiator (incl AT cooler) - AC condenser - Intercooler Heat Exchanger and Oil cooler. There are shrouds and foam around everything to keep it pretty well sealed, which is good in that they have it sorted from factory, and bad in that I can't make any meaningful improvements there. The second red sport pump water pump is mounted in front of the rad in the airflow, so I will see if there is somewhere else I can stash that (unlikely, it is tight in there). The horns which are also in the rad airflow will be moved somewhere else, and hey who needs 2 when 1 would work For track days, I can also remove the lights which would block some airflow. Factory has already taken the smart option of ducting all air that went through the oil cooler down and out of the engine bay. This pic is taken from below looking up, so air comes through the cooler at the top of the pic then hits the shroud and is directed down and out of the engine bay through the engine bay lower cover Which of course is good for oil temps, but doesn't help the rad as it diverts 10-20% of airflow away So, no big improvements to be made here, I'll flush the rad out and put it all back together.....    
    • It looks so incredibly busy in there! 😮 
    • Next..... That escalated quicker than an Elon and Donald break up! I'll post up a specific DIY for radiator removal on these, but all I'm saying is that if you get a workshop to change your radiator for any reason and they give you a $1000 bill for it, go and hug them and thank them for not charging all the hours it took.....what a bastard of a job. I'll make some adjustments as I put it all back for faster access in the future, but it was a nightmare.
×
×
  • Create New...