Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

any alternatives to fasten them on? dont really wanna use sikaflex or glue though... but at the same time my car doesnt see the track, double sided tape probably ok for daily driving OFF THE CLOCK! :)

Really a clear silicone will do the job and its easy to come off. Just three or four drops on top of the headlight not the clear side but the top of the light.

The problem with double sided tap is that the eyelid dont sit properly on the light as its raised a few MMs and looks shit.

Edited by subzeroR33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175314-eye-lids/page/2/#findComment-3218384
Share on other sites

I like the eyelids, it sets them apart from the stock looking front ends. All up painted they cost me about $60, I had them on my car for about 4 months until it went to Willowbank and they both flew off at 3/4 track. I was pissed off at the time, but i spose its pretty funny now. At 120mph the double sided tape is shit. Like it was mentioned above use sycaflex or silicone.

This a pic of my car with the eyelids, my opinion is it definately looks better.

Hey mate, although it depends on personal preference, eyelids sometimes do not fit exactly (and I know it's not your fault this is just how it is) - therefore, doesn't look flush enough... but the ones on your car do look ok.

IMO - I reckon no eyelids makes the car look tougher.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175314-eye-lids/page/2/#findComment-3218624
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...