Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi people

i had put up the thread about shit fuel eco with my R34 GTT. i had 205km with 45litre....

i brought to one of mechanic and scanned it with computer..

everything was perfect include O2 sensor....

and he found one problem with ignition timing....("???")

so he opended bonnet and unscrewed something at motor and had some test drive...

indeed the car have improved riding feel... smoother gear change less noise from engine(was felt like new..lol)

and i filled up the fuel tank fully and now im cruzing with this car to have check whether any improvement in fuel eco....

atm i had run exact 100km with one sector on fuel guage which is bit better before... but still have to see.... until the lights on..

ill let you guys know how does it go.... i hope have unless 400km with full tank.......

oh and i love nokia E65 with Sat navigation man~lol it works F#%#kn beautiful~

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175367-fuel-eco-problem-with-gtt-r34/
Share on other sites

ive run quoter tank till today... i think i still have same fuel consumption... should i clean the injector? isnt it big job?...... ive clean the injuector with injector cleaning liquid... but the injector cleaning for improve fuel consumption is different thing isnt it?.....

im so pissed off about this F#$%kn fuel........ where the F#$k is this problem/.//./../././

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...