Jump to content
SAU Community

Minimising Wheelspin

R33GOD
 Share

Recommended Posts

R33GOD Grand Master

R33GOD

Posted
Posted

As some know i have a r33 gtst series 2 with 209 rwk and the wheelspin really annoys me. i want to change the diff ratio to a lower one. stand me if im correct but i think my one has a 4.36 ratio? and i think the r34gtt has a 4.11? what i want to know is, is the r34 gtt diff centre interchangable with my current one? I want one that fits straight in with no modifications, can anyone sort this out for me, even if they know something else that is interchangable also and that will handle more power if i decide to. I also want it for the better top end and lower rev range whilst on the freeway at 100kph.

many thanks :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175701-minimising-wheelspin/
Share on other sites
R33GOD Grand Master

R33GOD

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I ran a 270rwkw street tune for a while.

225 tyres, hardly an issue with wheelspin.

I'd be looking at the suspension, quality of the tyres, diff condition and driving style :)

im getting a set of coilovers within the next 6 months, for now i just want to change the diff as i drive alot on the freeway and the constant high revving annoys me lol

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
As some know i have a r33 gtst series 2 with 209 rwk and the wheelspin really annoys me. i want to change the diff ratio to a lower one. stand me if im correct but i think my one has a 4.36 ratio? and i think the r34gtt has a 4.11? what i want to know is, is the r34 gtt diff centre interchangable with my current one? I want one that fits straight in with no modifications, can anyone sort this out for me, even if they know something else that is interchangable also and that will handle more power if i decide to. I also want it for the better top end and lower rev range whilst on the freeway at 100kph.

many thanks :thumbsup:

The R33's run a 4.11:1 diff ratio; the R32's run the 4.363.

Also. A higher diff ratio is numerically lower i.e 3.7:1, a lower diff ratio is numberically higher i.e 4.3:1.

Yes a higher ratio diff will help prevent wheel spin but it does make the car feel like it takes longer to come up on boost when toodling around then mashing the throttle from a low rpm.

First gear was much more enjoyable and usable however the trade off in the snap hard on boost in second and third gear simply was not worth it.

100km/h cruising speed did drop the rev's a little but unless you drop to a 3.7:1 or there abouts its really not that noticable.

3.7:1 will have your 0-100 times increase noticably. So don't do it. I have and went straight back to a 4.3.

If the engine noise gets to you at 100km/h shove in another muffler just after the cat.

Traction, you shouldn't have issues with only 209rwkw; as others have suggested definitely take a good look at your diff, suspension and tyres. Apart from tyres which is obvious the diff's worn VLSD is usually the culprit.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

One thing that prevents them being 100% interchangable is the half shafts bolt pattern.

R33 is 5bolt (1x5), R34 is 6 bolt? and S15 I can't remember. :thumbsup:

Unsure on spline; I'm almost certian if the R34 is 6bolt it will also have the larger spline.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Again... If its to reduce wheel spin then your barking up the wrong tree especially with only 209rwkw which is bugger all.

If its 'only' to drop rev's at 100km/h then yes.. BUT acceleration rate will suffer as a result.

The J30 diff isn't a simple drop in. I would expect the pumpkin to be the same as the R33 but the half shafts are different.

You will have to drop your diff center in to the J30 pumpkin and then slide in your half shafts; or grab the crown and pinion from the J30 and have it fitted to your diff housing.

Either way your up for around $300 ish for the J30 diff and another $300ish to get it working. So all up $600 ish + oil.

You really are better off putting that $600 towards a good mechanical. If you want a good 100km/h cruiser buy a family wagon. :thumbsup:

R33GOD Grand Master

R33GOD

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Again... If its to reduce wheel spin then your barking up the wrong tree especially with only 209rwkw which is bugger all.

If its 'only' to drop rev's at 100km/h then yes.. BUT acceleration rate will suffer as a result.

The J30 diff isn't a simple drop in. I would expect the pumpkin to be the same as the R33 but the half shafts are different.

You will have to drop your diff center in to the J30 pumpkin and then slide in your half shafts; or grab the crown and pinion from the J30 and have it fitted to your diff housing.

Either way your up for around $300 ish for the J30 diff and another $300ish to get it working. So all up $600 ish + oil.

You really are better off putting that $600 towards a good mechanical. If you want a good 100km/h cruiser buy a family wagon. :thumbsup:

i already have a family wagon lmao!!! lol. its more for rev drop than wheelspin. what is the j30 diff?

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

J30 is a type of nissan just like the R32 R33 etc

As I said.. before, a 3.9:1 won't drop 100km/h rpm all that noticably.

The rolling dia of your 265/35 18's is slightly larger than stock so at 100km/h you will already be reving slightly lower AND your speedo will be slightly out.

At 100km/h with your 4.11:1 diff ratio, 5th gear ratio and 265/35/18's the engine will be ticking over at :

4.1 ratio - 2551rpm

3.9:1 ratio - 2421rpm

3.7:1 ratio - 2297rpm

4.3:1 ratio that is shorter you'll be at 2708rpm

If you ran factory spec rolling dia (631.90) tyres (205/55/16) at 100km/h with stock ratio's etc you'd be ticking over at 2591rpm. So with your larger tyres you've dropped 40rpm off your 100km/h cruising speed.

Also the stock tacho reads slightly higher than it really is. :thumbsup:

So you have to ask yourself... Is 100rpmish really worth the slower/duller acceleration? I've done it and I definitely do not think so; enough so that I had the diff out a couple of weeks later and the std diff ratio shoved back in it.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
thanks mate. i heard the s13 turbo auto model has a 3.9 ratio and fits straight in? correct me if im wrong

I added to my previous post with some figures. :thumbsup:

The S13 diff isn't a drop in due to its different housing. So again you will be forced to swap the ratio from that diff in to your housing. Of which will blow out ot $600 odd by the time you buy the diff and have it fitted.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • djr81
      R32 update from 1990's spec.

      By djr81 · Posted

      New CAS just turned up from NZ Wiring. Looks like a nice bit of gear.  So, yeah. Triggered, bro. Realised I may as well do the cam belt while mucking about with it so will order one of them.
    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
×
×
  • Create New...